Can anyone suggest what this might be. When I apply light pressure to brake pedal on my 2012 auto, especialy from cold the car makes a grating noise. As the revs are higher when cold it,s as though the car is striving to move off. Pads and discs all look fine. Pads replaced last year and only done a couple of thousand miles since. Could it be that the pads have glazed and could do with roughing up.?.

What type of handbrake do you have, manual or electric ? - sounds like its not releasing fully. Jules

About a month ago you posted that you were going to jack the car up and do some maintenance.

Is this a clue, what did you do?

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post389154.html#389154 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 79k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I’d have thought glazed pads wouldn’t make any scraping sound. Maybe you are just getting a fine coating of rust build up overnight and on the first couple of applications, you are hearing it being scraped off. Some discs are more prone to rusting - my Evoque ones literally get a coat of rust on them by the time I have finished washing it. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Firstly, manual handbrake. Only maintenance done was engine service items. Oil, filter, air filter, pollen filter. Car is garaged every night. Disc,s are rust free with no lips. Heavy use of right foot does not make grating sound. Rear shoes and cables adjusted as per Haynes manual and all working fine. Definitely emanating from front. All wheels rotate freely when jacked up and neutral selected. It,s as though slight pressure on pedal is causing the problem. Obviously in drive the car wants to go but is objecting to me applying pedal pressure.

As the sound is from the front its not the handbrake.

Did you take the calipers off and lubricate the sliders when you replaced the pads ?

Personally I'd just take wheels off and have a good look at the brakes; check everything. Turn the wheel by hand and get someone to press the peddle and try to find the source of the sound. Jules

How about drive it a couple of miles avoiding use of brakes and then stop and feel the discs for temperature. You might have a hot one which would indicate brakes dragging. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Cheers, I did not lubricate calipers. Haynes manual states that Land rover insist not to. But in the past I have always done so with copper grease to all previous cars. So I think I will strip and lightly lubricate as suggested by Jules.

Personally I wouldnt use copper grease on the slides, other do though. In the past Ive found a few stiff slides, gummed up with copper grease residue - I use Ceratec Jules

william john wrote:

Cheers, I did not lubricate calipers. Haynes manual states that Land rover insist not to. But in the past I have always done so with copper grease to all previous cars. So I think I will strip and lightly lubricate as suggested by Jules.

I use a silicon based grease on the sliders

Update. Today I found a tube of Girling brake grease. It states to use only on mechanical brake parts. Not on hydraulic components. It,s stuff we used to use when I did mu apprenticeship with Unigate dairies on milk floats. Cannot hurt to give it try..

Badger51 wrote:

william john wrote:

Cheers, I did not lubricate calipers. Haynes manual states that Land rover insist not to. But in the past I have always done so with copper grease to all previous cars. So I think I will strip and lightly lubricate as suggested by Jules.

That is not correct, JLR say not to copperslip the pads, they do lubricate the caliper guide pins, with the correct grease, not copperslip!

Ceramic grease preferably, or rubber grease if not available

Copper grease causes the rubber to swell up and become very brittle

Of course always use Rubber Red grease on moving parts where the seals are concerned like pistons, but on the slide pins and even the backs of pads to stop squealing (when even anti-squeal shims won’t work) the use of Copaslip is fine, rubber grease is for rubber it’s not an anti seize compound.

Copaslip has a melting/running point of over 1000degC so you’d have to be going down the Mulsanne Straight to get into trouble  Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......