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Voyageofdisovery



Member Since: 09 Mar 2020
Location: Northants
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 
Engine replaced - turns over but won't start

Apologies for my first post being a request for advice guys - I'm usually over on the Disco 3 forum but my son has a problem with his Freelander 2 (Diesel) and I thought "Go to the guys who know!".

He put it through the local Ford (in the river not a Focus!) but the water level was up higher than usual with the floods and he hydro locked it. fyi: Didn't get stranded in the water, he rolled out the other side behind the transit that had just done exactly the same thing!

So, bought a nice low mileage engine and put it in, but although it turns over it won't start on the vehicle fuel supply. Will fire up happily on easystart direct to inlet.

Fuel getting to the high pressure side but something is stopping it getting through to the fuel rail.

fyi: Have swapped the crank sensor for the one from the old engine (as understand these have to be matched to the ecu) but still no fire up.

Any thoughts oh great ones?

Post #388323 16th Mar 2020 4:37 pm
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Farmer Chalk



Member Since: 07 Jul 2016
Location: Sevenoaks
Posts: 138

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 Dynamic Auto Firenze Red

Can you see fuel coming out of the filter? If you haven’t primed it properly you’ll see residual fuel post filter but not enough!
Make sure you have siphoned through before reconnecting the fuel rail??

Post #388330 16th Mar 2020 8:00 pm
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 962

Australia 
Re: Engine replaced - turns over but won't start

Voyageofdisovery wrote:

fyi: Have swapped the crank sensor for the one from the old engine (as understand these have to be matched to the ecu) but still no fire up.
Any thoughts oh great ones?


Whoever told you that about the CPS is wrong. Personally I would fit the CPS back from the 'new' engine. Although as it runs with easy start that is probably not your issue.

As Farmer Chalk has already suggested, you need to ensure the fuel filter has been bled properly, either by filling with clean diesel or preferably with a bulb pump & sucking the fuel through from the tank. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #388331 16th Mar 2020 8:14 pm
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Farmer Chalk



Member Since: 07 Jul 2016
Location: Sevenoaks
Posts: 138

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 Dynamic Auto Firenze Red

Have you had any joy with this yet? Smile

Post #388415 17th Mar 2020 10:12 pm
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Voyageofdisovery



Member Since: 09 Mar 2020
Location: Northants
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 

No Sad
Apologies, haven't updated you but had to walk away from it today for a bit.
We had swapped the CPS at the suggestion of a Land Rover Specialist (maybe not so special if into was false), so had in effect, tried the new one originally.
Have bled the system with a vacuum pump.
Am going to try swapping out the filter in case it was blocked, but bit of a long shot.
Will try another bleed tomorrow.
Frustrating!

Post #388420 17th Mar 2020 11:07 pm
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Farmer Chalk



Member Since: 07 Jul 2016
Location: Sevenoaks
Posts: 138

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 Dynamic Auto Firenze Red

Sounds a mare! Good luck with it!.... it’s so annoying when you know it’s just a tiny thing stopping it firing!
Fingers crossed! Very Happy

Post #388421 17th Mar 2020 11:41 pm
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Voyageofdisovery



Member Since: 09 Mar 2020
Location: Northants
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 

Ain't that the truth!

Post #388427 18th Mar 2020 5:42 am
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CJOver



Member Since: 27 Nov 2014
Location: Biggleswade, Bedfordshire
Posts: 637

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Lux Auto Santorini Black

I had an issue recently were I ran out of fuel - my fault, what I found was that the injector lines needed bleeding to get the fuel through. It would also run on easy start. MY13 HSE Lux Santorini Black Gone
MY11 HSE Santorini Black Gone
MY08 SE Blue, Gone
Alfa Romeo GT Gone
Alfa Romeo 156 Space wagon Gone
Volvo V40 Gone
Volvo 480ES Gone
VW Sirocco GTX Gone

Post #388436 18th Mar 2020 9:25 am
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Mowog



Member Since: 11 Apr 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 503

I assume you have cracked open one injector pipe at the injector and the rail?

Jumper leads on from running car.

If fuel is coming from filter it should appear at injector.
Then loosen each one in turn, retightening when fuel appears at each one.

Don't crank engine for more than 10 seconds each time .

It may take a good few turns .

It's a mechanical lift pump

Post #388437 18th Mar 2020 9:25 am
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 962

Australia 

Modern CRD fuel systems should not need the injector lines to be bled, infact it is a real no no in the diesel world. This system operates at extremely high pressure & is more than capable of slicing skin/flesh like a scalpel! I personally would ignore the comments that advise that. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #388446 18th Mar 2020 10:59 am
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Voyageofdisovery



Member Since: 09 Mar 2020
Location: Northants
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 

Getting bubbles in the fuel system when drawn through the filter with vacuum pump. Connections seem sound but these push on things never seem tight...will try changing the filter.

Post #388461 18th Mar 2020 12:39 pm
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Mowog



Member Since: 11 Apr 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 503

Badger51 wrote:
Modern CRD fuel systems should not need the injector lines to be bled, infact it is a real no no in the diesel world. This system operates at extremely high pressure & is more than capable of slicing skin/flesh like a scalpel! I personally would ignore the comments that advise that.



All injector lines will take off your skin if your daft enough to put your finger over them.
Even on my 1956 Leyland Beaver.

It’s not a real no no in my diesel world.

I’ve been cracking off an injector nut since I was old enough to hold a spanner!

Last week after changing the fuel filter on my Metropolis, I did just that!

So,once again............if it won’t start try doing what I said

Post #388474 18th Mar 2020 1:32 pm
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Voyageofdisovery



Member Since: 09 Mar 2020
Location: Northants
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 

Changed the filter and seems to have stopped or reduced the leak of air in. Pressure at the rail now much, much higher. Still won't fire though Sad

I expect its the CoronaVirus, everythiing else in the has stopped because of it...

Post #388480 18th Mar 2020 2:08 pm
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Mowog



Member Since: 11 Apr 2018
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 503

Well undo just one injector nut and also slacken the pipe at the rail to allow you to move it slightly,
Then keep turning engine until drips come out.
Then retighten and try another.
When all 4 have had dribbles through, just leave on loose at the injector and keep trying

Of course you don’t know when the engine last run do you?

Post #388481 18th Mar 2020 2:15 pm
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Voyageofdisovery



Member Since: 09 Mar 2020
Location: Northants
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 

That's what we've been doing as per your instructions MOWOG. Not even a hint of running. It's as if the injectors aren't actually firing. You'd think (well I would but I know Petrol) that at least it would cough a bit...?

Post #388482 18th Mar 2020 2:32 pm
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