Wanted freelander 02 to 04 , and any advice on what to look for when buying one .
Many thanks the daughter wants one .

Youre on the wrong forum, this caters for Freelander 2, made betweeb 2006 > 2015.
Assuming its Freelander 1 you are talking about? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Avoid the 1.8. Lots of negativity surrounding head gasket and water pump failure. This can be remedied but the fix depends on whether it was done soon enough with all the associated modified parts, or else the head will go again.. Avoid one that's been converted to 2wd "for more fuel economy" as it's usually the IRD that's goosed. And in any case, removing the rear propshaft saves something like 0.02 of a gallon so just not worth it anyway.
V6's are thirsty, especially round town and have a tendency to blow head gaskets like the 1.8.. People have criticised the plastic thermostat which can crack leading to coolant loss and eventual HG failure.
Avoid one with mis - matched tyres, this is essential, even mis - matched axle sets. This also knackers the IRD.
Window regulators commonly fail. Rear diff bushes fail causing a "clunk" when taking up drive. Propshaft bearings fail causing vibration and rumbling. Tailgate handles fail, either internally due to a rusted spring, or they break off. Not too expensive to sort but a PITA. Tailgates can rust where the handles are attached , too.
Top spec (facelift) later motors from 2003-2006 are much nicer, with heated leather front seats but obviously command higher prices.
Personally I'd choose condition over mileage any day of the week. A dog with low mileage will be a money pit, a well looked after high miler should mean the engine and maintenance has been looked after too.
Check the MOT of EVERY ONE you look at on the MOT History checker at https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/.
This will give you a better understanding of how the vehicle has been treated and maintained. A vehicle with MOT passes but the same advisories year after year shows it's not been cared for - the bare minimum being done to achieve the MOT certificate. Obviously avoid the vehicles that fail every year, with loads of advisories too, but passes the MOT a day or so later with only the failure items being done.
Brake pipes corrode, a very common advisory on the MOT sheet, but can be easy enough to do for a local garage.
All common sense really.
Most owners treated them like a family saloon, forgetting it has a sophisticated 4WD set up and that's where the drivetrain issues stem from. So they'd just change a single tyre, any one will do as long as it's the same size............then the problems would start.
When test driving, put the vehicle on full lock in reverse and drive back slowly. A little resistance is ok, but it shouldn't feel like the brakes are on. If it does, walk away.
The Freelander1 is easy to work on and maintain yourself at home. Most jobs being do-able on your drive.
Owned a 1.8, a 2.5 V6 and 2 Td4's. Fun to own - except the 1.8 which I felt just lacked power - I only kept that for 2 weeks ! BUT it proved itself as a great platform, so I bought the v6 and turned it into a rally car....................then did the same with my TD4's.

Bobupndown I know just asking.
RealBeale many thanks that is going to be very helpful you what will happen if I get a dog .

We have owned two FL1's, a 53 plate non facelift and a 05 plate facelift both TD4'S and both good cars but not without fault as described above, also look out for the back door seal as they fail and fill the boot underfloor storage with water also sunroof can leak.
Try to avoid 05/06 Auto... RFL very steep. 94 Disco 300 TDI Gone
96 Defender 300 TDI Gone...Should have kept it.
2003 Freelander ES TD4 Gone
2002 Defender TD5 Gone
2005 Freelander HSE TD4 Gone
2015 Freelander 2 Metropolis Keeping for now!

See this is why I love these site they are full of information and first hand experience, thank you.
I will keep you posted on how I get on.

We have had 2 FL1's Both 2.5V6 ES models. Both had problems with the electric sunroof runners breaking. Easy to repair but they are £150 a side. Both cars also suffered Head Gasket Failure. The first one was done under warranty (X reg car) the second car was a 53 plate, didn't repair it but gave the car to a mate. Head Gaskets on the KV6 engine are a major job and if your paying to have it done budget for £1000 plus.

The other thing that they both did was on a couple of occasions, the tail door window opened itself. 2007 TD4 XS The work horse that earns its up keep
2013 SD4 HSE The posh one for towing the caravan
1973 Triumph Stag I bought in 2009 and restored.

ive found a TD4 55 reg im going to look at ,full history .

I've a 1.8 with over 200bhp

Quicker than the Kv6 models, and with the uprated head gasket, more reliable than the KV6 and TD4 models

Fuel economy is not great, however

There was once a guy put a VW Golf engine in a FL1, got a photo somewhere.

O4/54 TD4 Auto 3 door for me all the way.
the auto box is pretty decent (same as fitted to Rover 75 etc made by Jatco) and the RFL is cheaper than 55/06 which are £550
if its got the Jatco box though just check for slipping in 3rd gear (revs going high before settling under acceleration), the 3rd gear cog is most likely cracked which is a common issue and its cheaper to get a replacement gearbox than fix it.

as has been said check for damp in the underfloor storage box, its commonly either a knackered rear window seal or misaligned door/window, both easy fixes if you can get the rubber seal.

check for the seized viscous coupler (Bell engineering can still supply and fit reconditioned ones) and check that the tyres are evenly worn all round and off the same brand on each axle.

other than that the TD4 BMW engine is pretty bullet proof

seem like a lot suffer from suspension arm corrosion and brake pipes and propshaft bearings most are listed on old mots