I want to change a few bushes as the car is feeling a bit vague on the steering, and wonders / needs lots of small corrections when driving in a straight line. Is anything easy to do at home, ARB drop links etc?

Or just better off giving it to a garage and asking them to change the control arms/ball joints etc in one go?

Also the metal link rods on the rear suspension can be rotated side to side a bit with slight movement in the bushes. Is that likely to be adding to the vague steering feel

cheers

Personally I'd get a garage to do it, plus some tracking before and/or after. It's something that needs to be spot on, otherwise it'll just drive you mad until you go and get it sorted. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

And make sure the tyre pressures are spot on...... Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

Tyres have been pretty good, not had to top them up for a year. Got ATs on and they seem pretty tough. Hadn't thought about tracking. Drove a car one with the tracking badly out and it was hard to keep straight

Sorry, I should have been clearer - I'm not suggesting tracking is the issue (although it could be), I more meant when the garage is working on it, get them to also do the tracking. FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - so many issues
2019 DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental
Now greatly regret selling the Outlander. MPG of the FL2 is atrocious and so are the fuel bills. Fun though 😎
Couldn’t afford the fuel bills so back to an older Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Significantly better than I remembered it to be…

Cheers.

Is it best to buy the complete control arms with bushes and ball joints rather than replacing bushes etc? Bearmach are doing the control arms complete for 120 quid a side. That should be quite quick for a garage to bolt on?

If I'm thinking of a lift kit then good to do it all at the same time?

If the control arms are coming off is there anything else worth doing like track rod ends and drop links?