Hi all

My Freelander 2 has had this issue for a while and I've just been tripping it and keeping it filled up, but really need to get it sorted out properly. I understand that there are two senders, one of which is part of the in tank pump unit that circulates within the saddle tank. Is there a definitive way of diagnosing which sender has failed, i.e. the stand alone sender or the one that's part of the pump unit?

I've never had any running issues with the car, the fuel gauge goes to full when I fill up, doesn't fluctuate at all, but once it gets to half way on the gauge it basically stays there. I'm assuming that what this actually means is the senders may be ok but the in tank pump has given up?

Any advice much appreciated, thanks

Last edited by Yazza54 on 3rd Feb 2020 11:01 am. Edited 1 time in total

Just to add it's a 2014 SD4/Metropolis. I did a search and found some info on loose connections etc but it read as though it was only affecting cars up to 2012.

It’s an easy Fix , my local garage did it for £130 + vat , the tank only needs partial dropping to give enough access to replace the connections with the kit that’s available. Don’t fall for the main dealers prices of £800+ for the job.

Was yours displaying the same symptoms as mine?

On the thread about the loose connections I'm sure I read the symptoms were gauge fluctuation, rapidly going from x amount of fuel to nothing etc. Mine doesn't fluctuate at all, always goes to full when I fill up, but anything beyond half way/ 200 miles it drops very slowly and I lose any confidence on how much fuel I have, infact it drops slower than normal all the time which would probably indicate that one of the senders is always reading full.

It seems to me that the senders are working but it's not a true and accurate reading of available fuel because some is stuck on the "wrong side" of the saddle tank and can't be used, pointing to the pump being the culprit?

It makes the most sense to my mind for the above to be the case anyway, there must be known symptoms for the pump going Vs the wiring fault?

My gauge was showing full ok , dropped to half and then would fluctuate to empty and back , sometimes have to switch off ignition to get it off empty again. From what I am given to understand it’s seldom the sender at fault , always the corroded connector system . The kit is available from dealers,not expensive . If you don’t want to take the chance on just the repair kit, the senders will set you back over £100 . If you check the Forum on this subject there is a download a available showing LR kit and details of symptoms and of fitting as sent to all dealers . I think the senders are clipped into position, which require release before they can be lifted to gain accessibility to sort the wiring problem .
Hope this helps you make a decision on how to tackle your fault.

I had problems with my fuel gauge many years ago. I checked the wiring through the inspection hole under the back seat to see if it was pinched or strained and it was fine (I believe earlier models had this problem) I then read to reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and leaving it for an hour so, I gave that a go and it fixed the problem completely and it hasn’t happened again.

Thanks gents I'll try the easy stuff first..!

CED wrote:

Don’t fall for the main dealers prices of £800+ for the job.

Thanks to a tip-off on here, one of my local main LR dealers did the wiring fix for me for around £87 including vat and pick up/return Mind you, The car was well out of warranty as it was just under 6 years old at the time with a FLRSH and LR did chip in around £200 under goodwill. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

CED wrote:

My gauge was showing full ok , dropped to half and then would fluctuate to empty and back , sometimes have to switch off ignition to get it off empty again. From what I am given to understand it’s seldom the sender at fault , always the corroded connector system . The kit is available from dealers,not expensive . If you don’t want to take the chance on just the repair kit, the senders will set you back over £100 . If you check the Forum on this subject there is a download a available showing LR kit and details of symptoms and of fitting as sent to all dealers . I think the senders are clipped into position, which require release before they can be lifted to gain accessibility to sort the wiring problem .
Hope this helps you make a decision on how to tackle your fault.

If the gauge is fluctuating it’s the connections , the faulty sender will be full or empty reading . It’s a 99% chance it’s the connections , well documented fault, that’s why the repair kit is available .

It doesn't fluctuate at all. I'm thinking the whirring may not mean the pump works/could be knackered internally somehow.

I think the side of the tank with the stand alone sender is full and staying full because the pump isn't doing its job. So the gauge drops as youd expect but when it gets to around half way you're on borrowed time because the half that's reading full is fuel that isn't actually available...? Plausible?