Hi Everybody,
I am a Novice when it comes to posting on Forums, so I apologise if I inadvertently fail to follow protocol.

Basically, I have purchased a Freelander 2 that suffered a timing belt failure.

When I stripped it down, I found that all 16 Rocker arms were damaged. Four or 5 were shattered and the rest suffered stress fractures.

I have assembled everything only to find that I have no compression.

Could someone explain to me the exact sequence for assembling the Cams when setting up the valve timing?

I have positioned the two arrows on the cam gear at 12 oclock, and made sure that they match up with the two coloured links in the chain, but when I attach the cam Sprocket, the hole for the timing pin is located at approximately 8 o'clock on the clock face, but the hole in the Cam Sprocket is sitting at approximately 6 o'clock.


When I rotate the Cam Sprocket and insert the locating pin, the arrows have moved out of sight. Is that normal?


I have decoked the valves, lapped them in and performed a leak test by filling up the head with both manifolds removed and the valves are fine.


I am really stressed with this now as I have been working on it for over a month.


Thanks in advance,

No idea as I have had no need to get involved but this may help:

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32299.htm...hop+manual FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks, I’ll take a look. I have downloaded a manual but it just says refer to the service literature which I don’t have.

Hi mate any luck with this? IV got the exact same issue, all 16 broken rockers replaced with new + timing belt kit and pump, I also matched the arrows on the cams to the coloured links ect, now I have no compression, just wizzes over really fast, let me know thanks very much

I have also got broken and damaged rockers, and am about to buy the replacement parts, just wondering if the none start issue was resolved.

Thanks
Nige

45mip19lot wrote:

Hi Everybody...


I have assembled everything only to find that I have no compression.

His post is from Aug 2018.

silly me  Jules

But no replies that I can see , that’s why I asked the question, don’t want to spend good money if it’s knackered.

I have not been into the valve timing of the FL2 before, but based on the thread starters information, the lack of compression seems to be down to the set up of the timing belt and sprockets or sticking hydraulic valve lifters/tappets. My comments will be general as I have never been into the details for this engine.
The most reasonable place to start is to study the workshop manual and Haynes book for the setup. Are the camshaft sprockets placed on the correct camshaft and the correct way round? can they be misplaced in any way?
This engine has hydraulic valve lifters, right? On other engines I have experienced that these lifters have expanded after being dismantled from the cylinder head. On reassembly, they will not compress fully as they are full of old oil, gunk i.e. (sometimes partly seized) and the valves will then not close properly. Sometimes they compress over time and make the valve close. A good warm up run of the engine if often what is required to settle old tappets, but then you need some compression to get it started. I have no idea if this is the case here, but this was pretty common on the Rover K-series engines I have done a handful of head gaskets on. A good tip is to check the valves for leakage after the camshaft has been installed in the cylinder head. Good luck

P.S.
Copied from wikipedia: "Used hydraulic lifters should be drained of oil before installation, to prevent them from holding open the valves on startup and potentially causing damage to the valve-train/pistons. This is easily accomplished by compressing them in a vise. Oil pressure will build quickly upon startup and they will set themselves to the proper height."
Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydraulic_tappet

Whenever I've had hydraulic lifters out of engines in the past, I’ve always emptied them out in a vice by compressing them a couple of times until all the oil had been squeezed out and they can be compressed by hand. Looking at pictures of the FL2 lifters, I’d say that they are definitely the type that must be drained before assembly.

As I said, I normally squeeze them in a vice a few times until the oil is out but just seen this method - don’t know if it will be the same with the FL2 lifters but worth a try.

 Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I once went on a engine course at Rover (not sure what engine think it was "T series" ). The trainer was explaining how to strip the engine. He told us to put the tappets on the bench upside down so as the oil would not run over the bench. He then asked why he had a room full of techs smiling at him. It was obvious to us he had never tried to start an engine where someone had done this. Steve

Thank you for your replies, most useful to know about draining the oil from the lifters.

I can compress each valve by hand and it seems to jump back up without any resistance but I guess this is no guarantee that the valve seats are sealing as I read somewhere they could have suffered damage but still move ok in the valve stems, I guess the only way to be sure would be to remove the head, but not sure I want to go that far, need to read up how much is involved in doing that.

Remove cams and check for compression/valve leakage. Should be tight then.

Reading this thread it reminded me of Emma Scully's problems with rebuilding her i6. Could it be the valve lifters??

Haven't heard from her since last October so she may well have scrapped the car.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32554.html MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings