Any tips on the correct way to remove the complete propshaft. does it just unbolt? cannot get it to seperate from the diff
i have a noisy rear end and suspect the carrier bearings.
I would like to pin point the noise,

Changed rear bearings so far, noise still there, but only over 30mph

thanks

On my Evoque, after unbolting the rear prop I needed to unbolt the rear axle mounting brackets and lower the nose of the diff. The prop then just dropped out. Pretty sure it should be the same on the FL2. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Once you've removed the bolts you will need to tap the prop shaft gently to get it out of the haldex flange that it sits inside. They can be quite tight! (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

I read that it has to be shocked off. One mans shock is another mans gentle tap.

With mine I just gave it a whack with a cold chisel and hammer to get it off.

I once heard of an AA guy who was called to a car on the motorway that had broken down. About half a mile before he got to them he stopped and retrieved a prop shaft lying in the carriageway. The occupants of the car were sitting there revving the engine and complaining that there had been a lot of vibration but they carried on, then there was a bang, the vibration stopped and they lost power and now nothing was happening in any gear. He said that it looked as if the UJ in front of the diff had failed completely then the shaft dropped and slid out of the splines on the gearbox. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

For the rear end, remove the 6 shaft to flange bolts, remove the bolts holding the rear bearing to the rear bearing support plate, light tap around the flange to break the rust, compress the end of the shaft towards the engine and it will pop out - may need a few hammer taps for a first time removal.

LR did this the first time on my car when they did the fuel tank wiring repair. I've done it 3 times since and have never needed to lower the diff / haldex unit. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone