Good evening,

Having being diagnosed with a faulty starter motor by the AA I fitted a new one today.

Only issue is that it down doesn’t start every time. The issue being is that it sounds as though the motor is spinning without engaging. Eventually I can get it to start. The battery was tested and is okay as it’s just over a year old.

Any experiences with non engaging starter motors on FL2?

Any help much appreciated please.

Thank you

Not specific to a Freelander but from previous experience it will be usually one of 2 things. A sticky starter where the gear on the starter is not moving out fully so is not engaging with the ring gear on the flywheel properly. Removing the starter and lubricating the shaft normally cures this. The other issue which is more serious is that the starter ring gear has worn teeth and the starter is not engaging with the flywheel properly as a result. This happens as the engine when switched off tends to stop in the same position so the flywheel teeth wear at one particular point. The gearbox has to come out to effect a repair. if you remove the starter and turn the engine over by hand you should be able to check the condition of the ring gear by looking in the starter hole. It is also worthwhile fitting an extra earth lead to the starter if it doesn`t already have one. Hopefully it`s only a sticky starter! Good luck

Sounds like a dodgy new starter motor to me. I don't think it will be worn ring gear, that sort of problem went away when pre engaged starters were introduced a long time ago. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
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Yeah, as above. Pre-engaged starters do just that - the starter engages the gears before it starts turning. It does sound like a faulty starter. I’ve never had to change the ring gear on a car with a pre-engaged starter so that’s highly unlikely but to be sure, (I see yours is a manual modal) put the car in top gear and rock/push it just a couple of feet and try again as the ring gear will be in a different position. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I had worn ring gear on a previous motor. Used to turn over and start but ok normally when it got to the missing teeth bit it used to make a high pitched whine instead of turning over. Evenutually it would turn enough to start. Got rid before having to do anything.

It looks like I may have solved this, will know for certain in a few days.

The new starter motor from Mearmach had a washer on the centre bolt hole, this washer was not present on the outgoing motor so initially I took it off when fitting the new motor.

I just took it back off and added the washer back in and the issue seems to have stopped.

Here is a picture. Initially I had the new motor completely flush against the plate. Now there is this gap caused by the washer.

Its odd that the starter does not fit properly.

They are different depending on whether auto or manual.

That gap cant be right and, like you say, could let crap / water into the workings. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Yes it is quite confusing. But it is now starting faultlessly every time.

As I said it’s not a genuine LR motor but is supposed to be themcorrect part number. Don’t know if the washer is a way of lining them up.

When you search for this part almost all have this washer.

No, no no! That’s not a washer - it’s a locating dowel. You’ll find you have two fitted and you should only have one. Perhaps the old one stayed put in the bell housing and the new one was already in the starter. You’re lucky you haven’t cracked the starter motor mating flange. The motor should be flush against the bell housing with NO gaps! As it is now, the starter pinion will not be fully engaging. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

So you are saying you think this one needs to come off? Or try and get the old one out? Are they specific to the starter motor? As there doesn’t seem to be anything obvious pertruding from the bell housing.

What do you think would explain it not working previously, but now working? Do you think it’s a cominsidence that it’s now working?

Thanks

Definitely got to come off. There will be one bolt hole (middle one of the three) that has a locating dowel like this:



The purpose of that is to ensure that the pinion is exactly the right distance from the ring gear. If you take it off you will see that there are recesses in both the middle starter bolt hole and the corresponding hole in the bell housing. The fact that your one is not pulling flush means there are either two of them fitted to that bolt hole or there is something else amiss. I’d suggest taking it out again and checking that there is only one dowel in the starter motor on the correct bolt hole. It doesn’t matter whether its fitted to the bell housing or the starter but there should only be one, not two. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Bemused_offroad wrote:

Click image to enlarge

I am a little worried about the crud getting into this gap. Operationally it’s now fine.

 FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
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So what happened? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.