Member Since: 13 Jun 2016
Location: Birmingham Great Barr
Posts: 916
Well the kit arrived and as the weather was so nice today, I decided to change the seals today. Set aside 1 hour as it looked very straight forward. However, took me 3 hours in the end !! BUT it wasn't without it's problems.
However, if I did it again I'm sure it would take less than an hour.
Ok so the best way to do it (not the way I did it , but the way I'd go about it if I had to do it again!)
First remove the engine cover , then disconnect the battery and remove it. Remove the air box, taking care to remove the sensor first, then take the battery tray out. This will expose the pump fully and make removal easier.
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Then to expose the left side bolt on the pump you need to release the bracket from the engine to the AC pump. It's held by 3 bolts - 2 10mm and the one on the engine is 13mm. I did not fully remove the 13mm engine bolt as removing the other 2 bolts means the bracket will be able to move enough to get at the pump bolt.
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Then undue both bolts either side of the pump and gently pull the pump towards you. (after removing the valve at the top of the pump).
The rear of the pump was filthy with old oil and crud.
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Clean this off thoroughly with degreaser before replacing the rubber seal you can see in the above pic. Then turn it over and remove the cover plate by unscrewing the torx bolts (unlike me who removed the cover while it was still on the engine - idiot !!)
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Hopefully you can see how the original seal for the cover plate wasn't doing anything. You can see it has shrunk below the lip.
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Here's the difference between the new and the old seal.
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Once the pump has been cleaned, fit the new seals using a smear of clean engine oil. Put the cover plate back on and after degreasing the engine, fit the pump and put everything back together the opposite of how it was removed.
The third seal was also replaced , the one on the valve at the top of the pump - didn't take any pics though.
Also , found this tissues wedged underneath the pump just before I removed it. Strange considering that the approved RAC garage changed the aux belt and pully.
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Dropped the water pump pliers when I was replacing the clip for the air box. Straight down the front of the engine. Had to remove the under tray to retrieve it.
Then when everything was back together I turned ignition on to be met with the HDC Inoperative fault. Disconnected battery, held the leads together for a hard reset and bingo, everything back to normal.
Hope this helps someone, although with my write up, probably more of a hindrance.
Last edited by RealBeale on 11th Oct 2018 12:00 am. Edited 3 times in total
10th Oct 2018 6:51 pm
p_gill
Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1236
Excellent write up!!!!
Cross #18 off the list
1. Starter motor - typically fails at 100,000 miles or 10 years
2. Engine Mounts
3. Blower Resistor
4. AC Compressor (Volvo owner recommends rebuilding the clutch pack)
5. Rear Pinion Bearing on Differential - replaced the gear oil and added a magnetic drain plug
6. Spark Plugs - replaced mine twice (every 50,000 miles)
7. serpentine belt, tensioner, idler - replaced mine at 113,000 miles/10 years
8. Thermostat - replaced mine at 10 years (also replaced two coolant hoses)
9. Power steering fluid and reservoir replaced due to noisy heavy steering
10. Battery - replaced twice
11. ATF fluid flushed - search for Gibbons method (note: I used the modified Gibbons method)
12. Brake fluid flushed
13. Front Brake calipers refurbished
14. Coolant replaced
15. Haldex fluid and filter - I used genuine Volvo parts for this (it was cheaper than Land Rover)
16. Fuel Pressure sending unit -
17. Ignition coils (Some evidence that a failed Thermostat leads to over heating and premature Coil failure)
18. Oil leak at Brake booster
19. Radiator Fan
20. BOT Gear oil for power Transfer unit (for mine I drilled a drain hole)
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10th Oct 2018 9:19 pm
