Took the rear wheels off today, for the first time since getting the car in October. Surprised and alarmed to find that even when properly torqued up, there is movement in the outer portion of the nut. On closer examination it seems that the chrome-effect portion on some of the nuts can do about 1/64th of a turn either way before catching on the nut itself. I’m pretty sure the nuts themselves are properly gripping the wheel but it is a bit disconcerting to get finger-loose movement in the head of the nut. As far as I can make out these are the original LR wheel nuts. Has anyone else noticed this? 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Yes, they are a carbon steel nut with a pressed on metal cover . The “ windy “ guns that tyre fitters use can knacker them . Also you can get corrosion between the two bits and they can swell to a point that the wheel brace might need hammering on , which knackers them . I’ve had to replace a few over the years on our Defenders and the Freelander 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Thanks. The loosest one also had difficulty fitting the wheel-brace, so it looks like some new ones might be in order! Never had anything so fancy on any of the Defenders I’ve had! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Plenty of Fleabay FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Worms wrote:

Thanks. The loosest one also had difficulty fitting the wheel-brace, so it looks like some new ones might be in order! Never had anything so fancy on any of the Defenders I’ve had!

I only ever had steel wheels on the Defenders that I either owned or had at work, so only had experience of standard hex nuts before this. As Yorky says, plenty on flea-bay, at widely varying prices, so it might be worth investing in a set. Just a matter of them joining the queue, though...! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Could these wheel covers be taken off and just the plain nuts used instead ?