I had the same fault on startup, turns out a faulty drivers door lock was draining the battery. I changed the lock and it had a positive knock on effect of fixing the Transmission faults.

I'd look for anything that might be drawing excessive power from the battery. Current: MY11 SD4 HSE / Sterling Quartz 2010 caravan

Previous: MY11 TD4 GS / Bailey Bordeaux 2002 caravan

OP, the amber light to which I am referring is the illuminated icon on the terrain response setting dial. Circled in pic. On mine, when I got the error message, this light would go out, if I drove the vehicle and didn't touch the terrain response within a mile, occasionally two miles, the light would come back on, and terrain response would work normally, no message on shut down. This was cured by battery and second earth strap, though sticking the Cetek charger on would make it go away for some time.

If it didn't illuminate and reset again, plus message appeared on shut down then there was a fault, in my case a bit of replacement wiring loom connector to the Haldex cured it.

Something else to look at anyway, hope that helps.

Click image to enlarge

But the amber fault light is off. When our Haldex was stone dead the warning light stayed on all the time. ----------
Tony S

Stubbenoldgit wrote:

OP,

Quote:

the amber light to which I am referring is the illuminated icon on the terrain response setting dial. Circled in pic. On mine, when I got the error message, this light would go out, if I drove the vehicle and didn't touch the terrain response within a mile, occasionally two miles, the light would come back on, and terrain response would work normally, no message on shut down. This was cured by battery and second earth strap, though sticking the Cetek charger on would make it go away for some time.

If it didn't illuminate and reset again, plus message appeared on shut down then there was a fault, in my case a bit of replacement wiring loom connector to the Haldex cured it.

Something else to look at anyway, hope that helps.

Click image to enlarge

[/img]

I took it to the Garage yesterday, they plugged in and it came up with LOTS of errors, the mechanic asked me if i had and central locking issues (as one of the errors was to do with that) but i had not had any issues with that, he has cleared all the codes and will check again in a few weeks to see if any have returned. The only permanent error is the Haldex pump open circuit, but i dont know if it is the pump or the wiring to it? I need to check the wiring and the pump before i go and buy a new pump.

You can unplug the pump connector and measure and test the pump directly.
Just supply to the unplugged pump connector (the wires that goes to the pump) a 12V and see/feel if the pump is spinning.

If the car has not had the Haldex serviced it will have a lot of crud in the filters. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

A bit of an update.
I have had the car up on ramps, disconnected the pump and ecu, cleaned the connections etc, i have continuity through the pump, (i havent connected a 12v supply to it yet) , i have also checked the wiring that i can see from the haldex to where it disappears above the chasis.
There was no change in the error for a couple of weeks.
But now all of a sudden it does not error on start up, all the special programs work but after about 10 minutes of driving the error comes up again and will stay on for the duration of the journey.
Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thank you in advance.
Allan

Bob is right - if it's not had a Haldex service you are either looking at a unit that is actually failing or has failed.
You wouldn't believe the amount of crud that the filter catches, and a blocked filter will starve the pump, even the best of pumps will die without sufficient oil.
My advice would be to disconnect the pump until you can get the parts/time to do the job.

OK you will only have 2 wheel drive, you might just save the pump. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

I’m in a similar position the vehicle has not had a long run since purchasing it. This cold weather has pushed the battery into a low charge position , so will long run it or trickle charge the battery and report back

Wil also check the age of the battery as the vehicle is new to me and no evidence that it has been charged although there’s a new differential having been fitted and new sttatter motor.
Which makes me suspicious that the culprit is the battery and the previous owner had the complete diff changed in its entirety purely due to the battery!!

A New Reliable Battery is always a good move with the FL2.

So many electronic modules are trying to initialize during the starting cycle that all kinds of random faults and error codes will occur if your battery is not young and healthy.

On my FL2 Auto, I can always tell when my battery is beginning to struggle with state of charge, it keeps the car in a lower gear than normal (to help the alternator) for the first mile or so. - It did it this morning. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)