Having an issue with the driver side lock on my Freelander 2. When you open with central locking the driver door will not open. You can see the interior latch move slightly but not fully. Pressing the key fob opening several times doesn't make any difference.

Only way to gain access is to open from inside stretching over from passenger seat.

When locking, door will not lock, latch doesnt move at all and has to be pressed down manually from the inside to lock the door.

Will this need a replacement door actuator unit? I experienced the same issue on my previous Freelander 2 and appears to be a known fault.

Even if its something as basic as a lock lubrication problem do not hesitate in getting it sorted as locks not responding correctly can screw around the whole electrical system and next thing you will be asking is why your battery is not holding a charge. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Happened to me last year, needed a new module in drivers door and fixed under warranty. Easiest way in as a work around was to hold the unlock button so that all windows come down then lean in. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I replaced my drivers door module last month using this guide, sorted my battery drain problem at the same time.

 Current: MY11 SD4 HSE / Sterling Quartz 2010 caravan

Previous: MY11 TD4 GS / Bailey Bordeaux 2002 caravan

Hi,
just to add some more details and pics as I have changed the N/S/F actuator today, it was very "lazy" on both locking and unlocking, mostly not doing either

I went for a used part of the bay for £20 as it had all 3 cables still connected, thought they may be best, but to be honest it makes no difference, unless you need a spare

I watched part 1 and 2 of the utube vids above ^ which did help but he skips the bit of removing the cables, which he breaks.

Another thread mentions taking the outer door handle off, did look at this option but the 1 bolt I found to remove is up inside the door and just as hard to remove, dont know if there is more than 1 ?

Took 2 1/2 hours to complete with the hardest part working out how to remove the cables from the lock actuator while still inside the door, now I know next time will be easier

Strip the door down as in the vids, speaker off, 6 nuts/bolts around the window motor/panel yellow part can stay on, just disconnect the electrical plug, remove the electrical box with the 3 screws.

Then you need to get to the glass behind the big panel, inside the door (why you remove the speaker) drop the glass down a bit so you have some room to move it upwards, hand behind the bottom edge of the glass to find 2 plastic brackets, here is a pic of one, you pull the top edge away to push the class upwards, there is a peg on the plastic bracket that locates in a hole in the glass. (the pic is on its side !)



when done the panel with the yellow part can be pivoted and moved to the side, allowing access to the motor unit
I found it best to remove the plastic cover plate (1 torx bolt) so you can then see the cable ends




Now undo the 3 torx that hold the lock to the door, this allows the actuator with the 2 cables still connected to be turned inside the door panel, you are wanting to get the the top cable first with the white plastic, they have a "tooth" on top and bottom that clip onto the metal bracket, I used a small Allen key to push in between to open them so the clip pushes off the metal bracket, the cable with the nipple on then you rotate to the 3 o'clock position and it comes off (you can see it in the pic at the bottom but this is looking from the other side)



The black plastic one is next you can see the same idea to open up the "tooth" or "legs" so it comes off the metal bracket
The cable end is slotted this time and comes out easy.



The unit then comes out with the cable that goes to the internal door pull lever still attached.

The good news is that they go on a lot easier than they come off they just clip back in place, so nipple located first the push plastic back onto metal bracket

Hope the pictures help you to understand what your aiming for.

To end it all SWMBO shouted me in for some lunch, I said "I'll just lock the car and be in "

Hi Riverblanche, I'm just about to attempt this, I've gopt the new actuator but I've been a bit nervous about the cable detaching bit as Ive read posts saying people broke them. Im still a bit unclear as to how the leg bits come off. I'm sure if I could see it I could work it out but as you have to take two of the cables off inside the door I'm a bit worried. I'm bound to break mine

Hi,
Here’s a close up of the cable off the bracket
Well that’s if I do better with the phot, direct from the phone this time

Ah so it's the grey bits either side that prise apart? Brilliant thanks a lot for that.

Hi

Well my offside rear door lock has been playing up for several weeks now. I ordered up a new replacement motor number 1020098 which arrived the other day, so today I bit the bullet and stripped the door actuator out of the car and then took it to bits to replace the motor, refitted the actuator back to the car and tested all working well. Just out of curiosity I thought I would strip the old motor down and see what had failed. it was totally shot the carbon brushes were worn out 100% and the com was also worn down. (See attached photo) The car is just five years old so I would not of expected to see the sort of failure. But on the positive side the motor was £10 verse a new LR actuator at £115 The whole job took about 2 1/2 hours. If you're going to do this it isn't a difficult job just a bit labourious you have to take your time and not rush anything .

1st problem I've had with my Freelander. Near side front door lock stopped opening on the key, hoped it was only due to the heat but I have to install new activator. Anyone know the part number and the best place to get one? Mine is 2013 model but I would think they are the same for all years?
Might be a bit of miss spelling due to Red Wine

Same door (N/S front) played havoc with the car - flagging up reduced traction error, low battery etc. Lock replaced and errors went away - never been seen since.

I bought the oem part from site sponsor, Duckworths... LR091527 @£98 delivered in November 2018.


From Amazon though (probably cheap copy) it is £27.60 delivered (Prime)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Front-Left-Drive-...B078X64VZG

Hello,

I have joined this forum to thank you for the excellent guide to this job.
Using all the advice, I have been able to fit a new lock actuator to the front left hand door of my 2014 Freelander 2 without breaking anything.

As a matter of interest, I sourced the replacement from Amazon for only £23.99 and at the same time, a new microswitch for the tailgate for £17.59 and a high level brake light shell for £22.15.
This seems to compare very well with the price of one "genuine door latch assembly", that seems to be around £123 + VAT.

Given the poor quality of "genuine" parts, fitting cheap copies seems to be the sensible thing to do and the parts I fitted are all an exact match for the "genuine", but prematurely failed components.

I have had several Land Rovers over the years and I find that it is a great shame that an otherwise well engineered and built vehicle is so often let down by the factory fitting of poor quality items, despite the high purchase price of the vehicle when new.

@ncooper00
welcome to the forum - glad you've found it helpful already Jules