2007 Freelander 2 Manual 2.2 TD4 HSE

Popped out to the shop, came out started fine, went to next shop, came out wouldn't start.
Got it brought home.

here's the symptoms

Unlock car - fob works fine

fob in ignition - 3 clicks from behind glove box
no lights on dash
left red led below rev counter flashing about every 3 secs

press start - 3 or more clicks again from same place but sounds like different relays
dash lights lit
system check in progress
left red led below rev counter stays steady until check complete then goes off
No attempt to start
sounds like a relay clicking in the engine bay fuse box
Lights go off - except battery, oil and seat belt

Key removed - more clicks from glove box area


I've trawled this forum etc and get quite a few possibilities.


Here's what i've tried and looking at next:

Battery was original, low voltage - Replaced

Starter motor took out of vehicle, tested, wasn't working - replaced
Put both back into car, still exact same issue.

Second earth strap - Mine is from battery to bodywork, did a test it's ok, but have ordered 2nd one

Steering lock - When I get into the car the lock is NOT ON

Start push button - is there a w3ay to test apart from pressing harder lol

I've tried to give as much info as I have, hoping that it can help diagnosis.


Hoping to get a solution or a sequence of things to try on here - appreciate the help.

Have you tried using your second key ???

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The light below rev counter is the security system isn't it ? That and the steering lock maybe a pointer ?

Largered wrote:

Have you tried using your second key ???

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SYFL2 wrote:

The light below rev counter is the security system isn't it ? That and the steering lock maybe a pointer ?

Blitzer wrote:

Here's what i've tried and looking at next:

...
Starter motor took out of vehicle, tested, wasn't working - replaced
Put both back into car, still exact same issue.

Quote:

Incorporated in the cable between the battery and the starter motor/generator is a CAL3 starter fuse. The fuse is mounted adjacent the battery positive terminal and is integral with the cable assembly. In the event of fuse failure, the complete cable assembly must be replaced.

Thanks for the reply Pab

Starter motor itself was tested by a garage, I was just told it was faulty, as it was 10 year old I replaced it. Don't know what the fault was.

The new unit is a reconditioned one, not tested by me ... but it did come with a test paper that indicated all passed. Starter and integral solenoid same as the original.

I did a continuity check between the battery +ve and the starter large connection, which I presume is the correct cable i'm checking. Proved to be fine, so I reckon the fuse should be OK.

As a starter check, I ran a wire from the battery +ve to the small terminal on the solenoid, it kicks and turns. BUT when I ran the wire to the larger terminal on the starter nothing happened, I was only touching the wire against it rather than clamp or grip on. Not sure if it should have kicked in or not ... guessing it should have ?

Have you measured the voltage at the starter when you press the start button? (might be best to use an analogue meter for this so that you can see exactly what is happening). If all OK I think that I would be taking the starter out and bench testing to see if it goes round when volts are applied.

I did once replace a starter on a vehicle which was intermittent ie it sometimes worked. When we stripped it down we worked out that some of the armature coils were open circuit and whether it started or not depended on where the motor stopped on the commutator. In this situation you have a unit that tests OK sometimes so you need to test a few times and turn it. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Should there have been a response from the starter when I connected the larger terminal to the battery +ve

I only have a digital meter.

Do you hear a click from the starter solenoid?

Reason for suggesting analogue meter is that you can see if/how the voltage changes, on a digital you just see numbers changing rapidly depending on the refresh rate. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

When I try to start using the btton, there is no noise from the starter or solenoid at all

When I touched the battery +ve wire to the small terminal which I believe is the solenoid, it spun into life

When I touched the wire to the larger terminal, which I believe is the actual starter motor, there was no response at all.

Blitzer wrote:

Should there have been a response from the starter when I connected the larger terminal to the battery +ve

Okay, so it sounds like the starter is fine then, on the basis it fires when I apply 12v to the solenoid connection.

I measure the voltage of the cable from the battery to the starter, +ve on the starter to the -ve on the battery, and its 12.4V, so theres a constant at the starter as mentioned

pab wrote:

Sorry if I'm teaching granny here, but bear in mind that the starter pulls a lot of amps from the battery and if you are trying to power it using a temporary cable which isn't up to the job it will get very hot very quickly.

Anyone have any info on checks for steering lock action or fuse location/number