Yorky Bob wrote:

AndyPP wrote:

Has anyone has the front shocks done recently on a freelander2? Think mine need doing and I'm after rough prices for the job.

I put my MY13 GS in last week to the local garage with me supplying new Struts, bolts (for attaching struts to knuckles), Anti roll bar links rods and complete bottom wishbones. Garage charged job at 4 hours and said they had quite a job getting the pre-mentioned bolts free and out. Total cost was just under £520 with labour at £269. Was going to do the antiroll bar rubbers as well but the couriers and suppliers let me down on delivery and they are still to fit now.

Car was fit to go on and would have passed a MOT but having done the rear ones myself last August I still had a small shimmy now and then with steering not as precise as when new. All nice and tight and hopefully will be good now for another 6 years. Some of the shimmy may be down to the type of tyre fitted, that being now half worn Crosslimates. They will be gone for next Winter I suspect, mind you with my recent health problems I might be as well.

No easy test as its like old age, it just creeps up on you. It was wallowing more than when new and not as sharp when turning the wheel but still very usable. Maybe the best test is to look for any misting of oil on the strut towards the top.

I have lost my ski holiday this Winter now due to chasing up some health solutions so decided to blow money on the car (and not change it) so its very much an indulgence. Most will wait until the MOT gives an advisory or something starts knocking. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thank you for you answer. I think your car has been well looked after and lots of preventative replacements. Believe it or not my car still has the original battery.

my last MOT passed without advisory, before service couple weeks ago I had asked them to check for any play in transmission as well as suspension but they said it's all ok. I don't think these above mentioned parts in my fl2 would fail mot but like I said the drive seems less sure-footed especially while cornering.

Which parts do you think most effective and benefit to change? Shock absorbers or those knuckles, linkages?

Thank you for you answer. I think your car has been well looked after and lots of preventative replacements. Believe it or not my car still has the original battery.

My last MOT passed without advisory, before service couple weeks ago I had asked them to check for any play in transmission as well as suspension but they said it's all ok. I don't think these above mentioned parts in my fl2 would fail mot but like I said the drive seems less sure-footed especially while cornering.

Which parts do you think most effective and benefit to change? Shock absorbers or those knuckles, linkages?

paxman wrote:

Which parts do you think most effective and benefit to change? Shock absorbers or those knuckles, linkages?

How long is a piece of string and how deep is your wallet. Servicing the Haldex and a new battery will probably give you a better return of any early investment but I have done those (Haldex may get done again this year). FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Haldex has been done @ 45k miles. Battery still stops/starts even now.
My question is directed to the shocks and suspension parts.

The knuckles did not get changed only the items attached. To get factory precise standard steering again at 7 years and also ride quality its easier to replace the whole lot in one go as fitting by trial and error can run up a very large labour bill if you cannot do the work yourself. My parts are claimed to be aftermarket quality so did not cost the earth. I note Land Rover now offer a 2 year warranty on many parts but I have no idea of cop out clauses but the prices are far too much to do what I have just done in my view.

The result I want is about another 5 years of no roadside breakdowns with this particular vehicle. It shunts us around many weekends in poor weather at night between Leeds and (geographically roughly) the East Coast but at some point that will cease.

Next is a early fitment of a Cam Belt Kit. mind you LR have moved the goal posts on when it should be done. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thank you Yorky Bob. So what is your estimate cost of replacing all shocks and other associated parts including labour? My car DIY is well behind me now especially to a job as big as this!

Depends on the honesty and reliability of whomever does the job a well as cost. For the front £600 upwards for a low labour rate with OEM parts. You need to ask your local trusted garages for quotes but as I sourced my own parts they will add a margin in for doing that. They may well say its a waste of money until you have more issues than getting that new feel back.

Shame age takes it toll as its also get expensive  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current