Hi all, hoping for some more info on freelander 2 problem. I’m trying to determine what’s happening with the licence plate lights, the cable going to the connector for the lights (where it splits) is reading 6 volts. I’m trying to trace where the cable goes to, to see if I can measure voltage just after it leave FET. My problem is I cannot find which connector I’m looking for. Drawing says c1bpo2b- pin 52... I have no idea which one this is tho?

Thanks in advance!

Are your lights not working?
The bulbs fitted are W5W bulbs (5watt) so i wouldn't expect 12V

Hi Robby, thanks for reply, no both lights aren’t working, I’ll double check the bulbs, I assumed as I was getting the 12v for the boot lock switch, and 6v for the lights, it’s a possible cable fault which I’m just trying to rule out

Must be an 'April Fool' wind up !

.

The car runs 12v bulbs all round. Just taken a bulb from a spare number plate fitting left over from changing the boot switch (all part of the same loom) and its marked 12v!

I have got to go walk dogs now, but if you let us know what information you are needing perhaps some one can help.

Right back from dog walking. That connector you are looking for is on the central junction box, just in front of the glove box on the RHD car. Check earth at lampholder, then check voltage at the live side of the lampholder with the lamp installed. You have checked the fuse?
Also have a look at this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jClxY5e2DsU

Hi rusper, I checked the voltage at the lamp holder without the bulb, and was getting 7 volts, but haven’t yet checked with bulbs fitted. I’ll do that ASAP, I was trying to find that connector to try measuring voltage just as it leaves the central junction box. As far as I’m aware having read a few other posts on this forum, the exterior lights aren’t actually fused, and instead run off a field effect transistor? ( which also supplies the boot lock switch)... the negative seems fine as it’s showing continuity to the chassis etc, and as it’s also common to the boot switch, which is working, I think it’s safe to narrow that out. My theory atm is that if I can prove 7 volts leaving the central junction box, it’s safe to say the FET is faulty? Really scratching my head at this point

For what they cost (not a lot) I would go out and buy a new rear door catch as comes with number plate loom and fittings. (make sure you get the right one as they do change on facelifts). FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Try reading this thread.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28032.htm...transistor

Matthewp180 Have you got any further with this problem?