Hi,

Have searched the forums and read all the information on servicing the brakes but not sure if I need any special tools. When servicing brakes on my wife's Passat I needed an odd size Allen Key to undo the sliders. I think it was 9mm but did not have one so had to file a 10mm key down to fit. Do I need anything like this for the Freelander.

Thanks vey much for any help and assistance.
Dave

You’ll need a 7mm Allen key to remove the front calipers. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Thanks Steve

Dave

You should not be able to file a good quality Allen key. The last thing one should be taking is shortcuts with dodgy tools which bug_er up the bolt etc one is trying to remove, making the job even harder. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Go along to your local quality motor factors and get a selection of keys to fit the bar and ratchet that you obviously already have if you are a safe DIY mechanic and finish off the job with your torque wrench and locktite. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Been reading lots on changing brakes on here but not at all confident, local garage can do discs & pads all round for £355.
Descent price ? If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

dealer will be over £600 but ensure parts are a reasonable quality FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I got an Allen key from my local [2 x Ronnies] tool store.
He couldn't find one under his normal stock and then after a search of his shelves he pulled one out.
It was a Draper in a dusty blue blister pack and listed for Ford brakes.

This is the Allen key - Draper BPR7
 FL2 now gone and have a couple of items left for sale:-

Brodit active iPhone holder + Brodit dash clip,
Bluetooth Music Streaming Module.

Thanks Bob. Will ask what he uses.  If it wasn't so bad it'd be funny.

🐑
Freelander 2 HSE auto 2014 ( Florrie ) ..... Try again.
Freelander 2 GS 2012...... Gone.

G clamp to push Pistons back in,or the special wind in tool.

That 7mm fits a 1990 Ford Fiesta, I know 'cos I bought one and still use it on my FL2.

Brakes are one of the easiest jobs to do on a car but the trade talks the job up by citing safety issues. Buy good parts, do your homework, get the wheels off one at a time and have a go.

Most of the time you don't even need a G clamp, I prefer to push back with my fingers. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

BlackBird,

To compress the piston I bought one of these





For my LR2 I was getting a little squeaking so I replaced my pins and bushings







The pins an bushings didn't eliminate all the noise so I changed the grease to






And lastly to make sure that the piston moves freely I used compressed air to extend the piston and the tool to retract the piston until it moved easily (hand pressure only no tool required). If you are going to do this then you have to be very careful, you will need something to stop the piston from coming all the way out (a block of wood will work). I also used brake fluid to clean out the inside of the caliper and I injected brake fluid under dust seal to clean that side as well.

Here in the states I don't have access to a brake force Dyno but I think in the UK its part of the MOT (at least it was on wheeler dealer). If your not satisfied with the brake force balance then the caliper cleaning that I described above might be in order.

Good Luck

Paul

Bobbyg wrote:

G clamp to push Pistons back in,or the special wind in tool.

p_gill wrote:

BlackBird,

To compress the piston I bought one of these





For my LR2 I was getting a little squeaking so I replaced my pins and bushings







The pins an bushings didn't eliminate all the noise so I changed the grease to






And lastly to make sure that the piston moves freely I used compressed air to extend the piston and the tool to retract the piston until it moved easily (hand pressure only no tool required). If you are going to do this then you have to be very careful, you will need something to stop the piston from coming all the way out (a block of wood will work). I also used brake fluid to clean out the inside of the caliper and I injected brake fluid under dust seal to clean that side as well.

Here in the states I don't have access to a brake force Dyno but I think in the UK its part of the MOT (at least it was on wheeler dealer). If your not satisfied with the brake force balance then the caliper cleaning that I described above might be in order.

Good Luck

Paul

Quote:

How are you using compressed air? Are you removing the hydraulic pipe to do this?