Hi Since turning off my stop/start every journey the fault has not reappeared, this was several months ago so I think it was the stop/start. draining the battery.
PS its gone all over winter with no problems and I only do a few miles a week the longest is 8 miles to my sons house.
Richard

Had the rear diff repair done under warranty 2 months ago - this last week the " Reduced Traction Warning " came up on the info screen but disappeared on restarting. This has happened twice now - do you think its connected to the diff area being repaired thus affecting the haldex unit??? MY 09 GS manual in Lago Grey, Wood Co arm rest and side bumper strips - now sold.

MY 15 SD4 SE Auto Orkney Grey with colour coded Bumper Door Mouldings

Hi
My LR2 is a 63 so a bit older, but only I think at the time about 19k miles when I had the warning.
I bought the LR from an old boy who had only done 14k in 3 years so since new it had only had short runs all of its life.
To be honest I wanted something a bit newer but with mileage that low I bought it.

I think the problem I had was linked to the stop/start draining the battery, I only do very local miles mostly maximum run is about 2 miles to my local town,I have now retired so no run to work, so the stop/start was draining the battery, when I put the multimeter on it was on only about 12.3v. I then trickle charged the battery for a few hours.
When I stared the engine and put the meter on it was about 13.8v.

Yorky Bob suggested haldex oil and filter should be changed at about 40k, so if I keep it that long I will do that.

I would check the voltage on your battery and if you can switch off the stop/start, mine has been fine since I turn it off every single time. Hope this helps Richard

There is a thread on here somewhere that explains the algorithms behind the stop/start. It shouldn’t kick-in if the battery is below a certain level of charge or if too many electrical components are running, or if the temperature is below about 7C. So it shouldn’t be possible for the stop/start to drain the battery. If stop/start is functioning to that degree, then there might be something wrong with the software that drives the eco mode.

I’ve had my FL2 for nearly four months and I think the stop/start has cut in on four occasions - which perhaps coincides with the number of occasions it’s been above 7C since November! I’m hoping for great things come spring! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

My stop start has always been unpredictable as to when it will work. It will kick in within a 100yards of setting off 1st thing in the morning with a cold engine and also works down as low as 0 degrees. Other times it can go all day without working once. There is a large number of parameters that need to be meet in order for the stop start to work and things like turning the heater fan up a few speeds will result in the engine restarting itself. I do try and note what (if anything) is different the times that it works but nothing conclusive yet!

4c on dash, orange snowflake showing on dash and stop start cut in a few days ago. Maybe its as I have a new battery but its a pain in the butt. I try to turn it off each journey.

Anyways we digress, trickle charge over night being Winter if battery is older than 4 years old or replace. If older car fit extra earth lead. Do that and then see how your message reduced traction message goes as most will be fine once car is not starved of power. Remember our friends in places like Finland fit engine heating systems that never let the engine get cold overnight. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current