Was driving slow yesterday and stopped at some traffic lights
When all of a sudden the engine started shaking so pulled over
And switched off as i could hear a rattle , had a look under the
Bonnet and could not see anything so started it up and went back
Home, after another look i noticed a bit of oil on the intercooler
Pipe so went to tighten the clip but it was not tightening so pulled the
Pipe off to change the clip and inside the pipe was an 8cm long bit of
Bronze bar so now i knew what the rattle was so today i removed the
Intake manifold but only found 1 thick butterfly wedged in the port
And that’s all nothing else so did they ever make a manifold with just
1 flap ? And there’s no melted bits or any sign of the rest of the bronze rod
And it’s not in the intercooler pipe so I’m scratching my head ?

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic19543.html?highlight=swirl

If this is not enough do as I did use "SEARCH". FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I have searched and read most of the swirl problems but my Q was why only
1 flap ? mod maybe ? or some one having a laugh !!

anyway blanked the hole off where the rod was still got the vacuum thing on and connected,
EGR blanked as before,
used the same gaskets on the inlet manifold and runs sweet as.

worrying. how many miles has your car done? At what mileage did you blank the egr? I bought a swirl-less manifold for mine intending to do the swap, haven't got around to it yet. 1978 Laverda Jota. Stolen...
1980 Honda CBX1000 6cyl.
1978 Laverda Montjuic.
2010 Yamaha MT01.

captin wrote:

I have searched and read most of the swirl problems but my Q was why only
1 flap ? mod maybe ? or some one having a laugh !!

anyway blanked the hole off where the rod was still got the vacuum thing on and connected,
EGR blanked as before,
used the same gaskets on the inlet manifold and runs sweet as.

The TD4 cylinder head and intake manifold are designed to optimize levels of swirl across the engines speed range, and provide a high volume of air into the cylinders. The intake manifold is designed with a lower row of 4 helical swirl ports, and an upper row of 4 filling ports with port-deactivation device. The 8 ports are sealed to the cylinder head and structural camshaft cover mating ports with a shaped sealing ring. The helical swirl port is configured to create optimum swirl for efficient combustion; while the filling port is provided to supply high volumes of air without disturbing in-cylinder swirl. The intake manifold port de-activation device is controlled by the ECM. For additional information, refer to: Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel (303-14 Electronic Engine Controls - 2.2L Diesel, Description and Operation). Each cylinder is supplied air through the helical swirl port, and when activated, through the filling port. The helical swirl port is always open and directs air from the intake manifold lower port at a tangent into the combustion chamber. The filling port is normally closed, and is only opened during certain engine operating conditions by the ECM. When opened the filling port directs air from the intake manifold upper port, and through the curved intake tracts into the combustion chamber. The intake tracts are cast with the structural camshaft cover, and join the intake manifold upper filling ports to the cylinder head machined filling ports. At low engine loads gas flow is so low that the filling port is closed off. This has the effect of raising gas velocity through the helical port and increasing in-cylinder swirl to the optimum rate. To avoid the risk of the high gas flow creating excessive swirl, the ECM opens the filling port under high gas-flow conditions to maintain consistent optimum swirl across the engines operating range. Intake Manifold Port De-Activation
Item Part Number Description 1 - Solenoid-operated valve 2 - Intake manifold helical swirl port 3 - Vacuum-operated actuator 4 - Intake manifold filling port 5 - Butterfly valve (4 off) Port de-activation is operated by 4-butterfly valves connected on a common shaft within the intake manifold. Each butterfly valve is housed within a corresponding intake manifold upper filling port. The common shaft is connected to a vacuum-operated actuator, and is operated by a solenoid valve under the control of the ECM. The vacuum required for port de-activation is supplied from the engine mounted vacuum pump. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

The rest went out of the exhaust via the engine then.[/quote]

so the 3 flaps and the rest of the rod went through the exhaust valves
in ten minutes without a trace ? and I say ten minutes as that is how long
it took me to get home after the engine started rattling which had stopped by
the time I got home.

engine has done 104k and I blanked the EGR at 94k when I bought it.

littletriple wrote:

worrying. how many miles has your car done? At what mileage did you blank the egr? I bought a swirl-less manifold for mine intending to do the swap, haven't got around to it yet.

captin wrote:

The rest went out of the exhaust via the engine then.

so the 3 flaps and the rest of the rod went through the exhaust valves
in ten minutes without a trace ? and I say ten minutes as that is how long
it took me to get home after the engine started rattling which had stopped by
the time I got home.

engine has done 104k and I blanked the EGR at 94k when I bought it.[/quote]

Aliens then, It was said tongue in cheek

4-butterfly valves connected on a common shaft means whoever sold you the car then was having a laugh one way or another. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I'm on 47k, egr blanked, so hopefully got a little time. But yes, it needs doing.
I don't see how a section of the rod could vanish without human (or divine) intervention... 1978 Laverda Jota. Stolen...
1980 Honda CBX1000 6cyl.
1978 Laverda Montjuic.
2010 Yamaha MT01.

If it were mine I would be wanting to see what is still in each combustion chamber - take cylinder head off or, if possible, take a look using an intrascope or similar through each open inlet valve or the glow plug holes. Could be pistons with brass rod hammered in.....

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

I looked and used a powerfull hover down every hole, pipe and nothing also turned the engine over
by hand and checked each valve and not a mark on them and as I said the engine is running sweet in
fact smoother than before as it is all clean in the manifold. so who ever left just the one swirl flap in
must of thought it was ok, strange I know.

littletriple wrote:

I'm on 47k, egr blanked, so hopefully got a little time. But yes, it needs doing.
I don't see how a section of the rod could vanish without human (or divine) intervention...

Yes should be OK for a while but I will do it - just haven't had time yet. Done all the 10 year stuff already this year & bought the manifold with new seals. Been working on my bikes.  1978 Laverda Jota. Stolen...
1980 Honda CBX1000 6cyl.
1978 Laverda Montjuic.
2010 Yamaha MT01.

when mine went the linkage broke and the rod came out the side of the manifold