Firstly I'm excited to be on this forum. My wife and I recently got a 2008 LR2 as our daily. Still have my 2002 Clk55 cabrio for fun

So far I have changed the plugs (NGK), oil (M1 5w-30), topped off the coolant, and replaced the rear door lock switch.

The final thing on the list [for now] is figuring a clunking I have on the front passenger side when going over bumps regardless of speed or steering angle. Also I have a wheel vibration which could just be a balancing issue or related to the suspension.

Just from looking with the car on the ground I don't see any of the usual worn or torn boots around any components.

My thoughts are ball joint, swaybar link or swaybar bushings. Any thoughts? Any known components that frequently fail on the front ends?

I'd start with the anti-roll bar drop links, they're prone to wear in the ball joints at either end, easy enough to check too, you can reach in and grab them to check for play with the car parked on level ground.

Thanks for the reply!

When I reached in it felt snug when I shook the link. Could it respond differently with the suspension unloaded?

Take it off and see if the noise is still there. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Take the stabilizer link off?

So I jacked the car up and checked for play at 12 & 3 positions and found no play. Then I tried again with the lower control arm jacked up and nothing again.

Visually I didn't notice anything really worn even when giving everything a good shake. I'll let the pics speak for themselves I guess.

I was going to attempt taking off the swaybar link but as I got the top nut nearly off it seemed really snug. This got me wondering if I would be able to get the link back on after without a prybar or something to lift the swaybar back up.

Anyone have any thoughts from the pics? Other areas to inspect?

On the vibration front: it's more pronouced on some of surfaces than others and at times even abesnt. I'm thinking balancing issues unrelated to my noise.

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Might be worth checking the engine mounts

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic27532.htm...ine+mounts FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

I don't believe it's a motor mount issue as I have had a motor mount go and this is nothing like that.

I had a mechanic friend of mine inspect the suspension components with me as well and we weren't able to find anything off. Our thought was that MAYBE it was the upper strut mount? Even then neither of us felt too sure about that.

Only because the components are so cheap to replace, I ordered a new stabilizer link to see if that cures the problem. If that doesn't do the trick then the next step will be the swaybar bushings most likely.

Well I changed the stabilizer link and I still have the same sound. Back to the drawing boards.

Might just strap my Gopro to the wheel well and see if there's anything off while driving.

For reference I suppose: the Meyle HD stabilizer links are about a good 50% beefier and don't utilize the allen key that the stock bolt uses. Instead it uses a 16mm wrench on the base of the threads to keep the bolt from turning. So you would need a 15mm and 16mm wrench.

drive shaft ? for the vibration and as for the knocking is the top of the shock tight.

How 'heavy' does the clunk sound ?

I started to get a clunk that sounded like something about the mass of a trolley jack / engine crane wheel clunking, bot could not for the life of me find anything that could be poked, knoxked or wiggles with a pry bar...

It could be replicated over large road seams or small speed bumps at most speeds & steering angles, but I found it disappeared when applying the brakes lightly.

Turned out to be a brake pad jiggling slightly!

Fixed by removing the pad and spreading the piston grippy spring things so they, um gripped the piston better.


Your results may vary

Ian

In picture no 3 above there looks to be a tear in the CV bellows (or is it just a shadow/oil mark ?). We had a CV joint fail due to water ingress caused by a badly fitting bellows. Check this. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

This is a louder clunk than just a brake pad for sure. I've had ball joints go in the past and this would certainly fit that as far sound however there's no play on the ball joint on the control arm.

At this point I have replaced the passenger side stabilizer bar and both sway bar bushings (PITA by the way). Zero change sadly. I know that I need a new tie rod end on the drivers side however everything else checked out fine for play/wear.

While the car doesn't bounce the ride certainly isn't smooth and feels over sprung which makes me believe this may be a strut related issue affecting the ride and causing the sound.

I just ordered two new struts and two new out tie rod ends.

Anyone have any experience changing the struts? Found some youtube video's but I'm wondering if it can be done without removing the spindle from the lower control arm.

I also have a SEAT Alhambra, an MPV similar to a VW Sharan. Mileage 124,000. Symptoms were thump from L/H front suspension when hitting pot holes, etc. The front suspension is a similar design to the LR2 with Macpherson strut shock absorber/spring unit, lower wishbone, anti roll bar with drop links.

I first replaced the drop link. No difference.
I then removed the strut and replaced the top swivel bearing, top 'donut' rubber mount and bottom swivel on the wishbone. A slight improvement, but still bad.
I then removed the strut again and replaced the shock absorber. Fixed!

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)