Suddenly got a loud metallic screech from OS front wheel whilst reversing down at the allotment today. Disappeared after driving forward a few yards.

Quick inspection revealed very rusty and very flimsy disk brake mud/dust shield coming into contact with disk.

Three different LR numbers depending upon VIN. I ordered the later ones for both sides LR041426/7 from Craddocks (£24.38 inc VAT & delivery).

They are out of stock at several places I tried on-line, including https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/

I just hope the retaining screws come out OK - fingers crossed. Jules

I don't know if the fronts are the same as the rears, but having just done a rear wheel bearing, I found that you could not even attempt to remove the dust shield / backplate without splitting the hub. Simply no access to the fixings. Hope the fronts are easier. Good luck.

Grimdog Yes the rears can't be replaced without removing the hub and that means a new bearing doesn't it.

I believe that Britpart have replacement fronts which are an easy job to replace

Well that's good to hear.

Both my rears are in good condition. No real dramas changing both rear shocks and NSR wheel bearing. Managed to snap one droplink bolt whilst torqing it up so had to wait a few days for a replacement pair.

Mine started rattling a couple of months back.
So I pulled it off and it's now on my scrap metal pile.

Click image to enlarge

That's the next question- what is the downside of not re-fitting the dust /mud shields ? Jules

They are there to reduce water splashing up from the wheel on the opposite side of the vehicle from contacting the rotor. However the chances of that happening is low, and any water would steam off instantly the brakes are applied. The rest of the time, the shields reduce airflow over the rotor, so they heat up quicker.
Racing cars don't have shield. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

My drivers side broke free of its mountings last summer and is currently sitting in the garage. It just fatigued around its mounting points. Plan to weld a little tab onto each and re drill them. Will wait till next set of front pads and discs required as easier to get at the fixing bolts with the disc off. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Nodge68 wrote:

Racing cars don't have shield.

Nor do they usually last long enough to go rusty  Jules

Grimdog wrote:

I don't know if the fronts are the same as the rears, but having just done a rear wheel bearing, I found that you could not even attempt to remove the dust shield / backplate without splitting the hub. Simply no access to the fixings. Hope the fronts are easier. Good luck.

Well that is worrying! I've had both rear wheel bearings replaced in the last year and have been told that I will need new rear back-plates for its next MOT (in October)... I'm not sure I want to pay for both rear bearings to be done again, just for brake back-plates. Could be bye bye to the FL2 in October if I can't find a way around this, but at 200k miles it's probably not worth that extra expense.  2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

The problem with the rears is that a spring from the handbrake mechanism (iirc) attaches to it. When one of my rear shields rusted away the mechanic managed to find somewhere else to attach the spring thus avoiding replacing the shield. The car has successfully passed a mot since.

The springs just attach each brake shoe to its partner. There are some small pins which pass through the backplate, secured with a clip which hold the shoes to the backplate.
I would suspect your mechanic drilled a hole to align with one of the other holes in the brake shoe, and put the pin through that.
Not sure I would be happy with this solution.
Hope you leave it in gear when parked, or it's an automatic.

I always leave cars in gear as a matter of course, having once had one with a dodgy handbrake. This solution looks more substantial than that though, although it’s a while since I saw it.

pab wrote:

The problem with the rears is that a spring from the handbrake mechanism (iirc) attaches to it. When one of my rear shields rusted away the mechanic managed to find somewhere else to attach the spring thus avoiding replacing the shield. The car has successfully passed a mot since.

Is having no front disk brake mudshields an MOT failure ?
Im thinking not, but would be good to know definitely as I have the MOT coming up in a few weeks.

10 days ago I ordered a pair of mudshields (LR041426, LR041427) from John Craddocks as their website claimed they were in stock. Rang JC today - turns out the website does not display live stock information so in actual fact they are not in stock and are now on special order - which means they have absolutely no idea if and when they will be in stock. Would have been nice to be told.
Hoping to get an update from JC later today. Jules