Dear Freel2.com members!

Firstly, I’d like to say hello; my name’s Ollie, I’m 27 based in Warwickshire and my beloved 2008 FL2 TD4 HSE is my first land rover, owned for 2 years now!

I’ve frequented this board multiple times over the past couple of years and found the advice invaluable, so I’d like to say thank you! I’ve now made an account and promised myself i’d join in proper!

To the point of my post…

Hi all! Please brace yourselves, bit of a long-winded one but my question is at the bottom…
Beavis Pits’ video on youtube has been incredible for this; your advice on there saved us a good chunk of time and pain!

Finally got around to doing the intercooler change and turbo hoses, as well as cleaning out the throttle body and even changing the MAP sensor!!

I’ll be honest - it’s a pig of a job, lots of frustration and swearing (whoever designed the one particular screw for front bumper behind wheel arches should be shot) - but we got there in the end! Very happy and proud 😂

Did a final once over and disconnected and contact cleaned EVERY connector/sensor we could see!!

However… the problems begin during test driving!

I am getting “lumpy” / “lurchy” drive between 1600-1800rpm ONLY - when holding accelerator in this rev range it sort of judders and lurches, almost as if starved of Oxygen and not combusting properly? Rev needle flickers up & down slightly.

Code reader is throwing these up: (my autel reader is in the post but used my dad’s generic reader)

P0238 - Turbo/Super Charger Boost Sensor “A” Circuit High
P2008 - Intake Manf Runner Control Circuit/Open Bank1 a)
P2296 - O2 Sensor Out of Range During Deceleration bank1 sensor1

Questions:
- Does anyone have any experience with these errors?
- How am I?
- Should I just chuck into the (spectacular) specialist as I usually would, with tail between legs, and beg for mercy?

All the best folks, any help or advice greatly appreciated !

Have you checked all the hoses and pipes for damage or firm connections? Is there air getting into system? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 77k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

It's likely the replacement MAP sensor (why change it?) is faulty.
Have you unplugged the swirl flap control solenoid?
The O2 sensor has a life of about 100k miles, so could be less than perfect in operation. However if the MAP isn't giving any boost data, the ECM won't be able to fuel the engine correctly, which could return some strange readings from the O2. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

I wonder if the OP got this sorted out would be good if he would let us know.

I don't know Arctic, but if he's following the advice of an unqualified person on YouTube, he could be in for a challenging time.
As you know you can't just change vital sensors on these engines without suitable diagnostic equipment to calibrate the system afterwards. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, my daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

If this happened to me, i'd be going over every hose making sure they're all connected properly, and that i didn't forget to plug a sensor back in.

A cheap OBD2 reader and the free torque app would be handy to see what the sensors like the MAP are reading:



Hopefully this guy comes back to us to let us know how he's doing.