Did my rear right bearing a couple of weeks back (Did it on the car as I don't have a press and its much quicker anyway) and have a couple of lessons learnt / tips to add to this list.

1. If you do it on the car without removing the knuckle, then you don't need to remove the handbrake cable (Which I found impossible without the small pipe / tool to push back the prongs). You can just release one or 2 of the handbrake cable mounting points under the car and there is then enough slack to pull the knuckle forward to get the drive shaft out.

2. I found it impossible to get enough force / swing to knock the hub out of the knuckle from behind so had to go and buy a hub puller and slide hammer and then was able to pull the hub out after about 15 'blows'. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Thanks Pedro Later cars with a the EHB must be easier then. What did the tools cost ? It’s a bit of a lottery, I recently changed the rear struts but needed some spring compressors etc so you do wonder at times are you doing it for fun as the garage may have been cheaper. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

The slide hammer and hub puller cost £107 from Machine Mart but are probably available cheaper online if you have the luxury of planning in advance of the job !


Unfortunately, changing the bearing has only removed one of my noises and I still have at least one other which may be the LHS rear bearing so at least I've got the tools now  FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Would this replacement be the right one?
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/drivew...m=rear+hub

Don`t think that part is for a Freelander as the splined centre doesn`t look big enough and the wheel studs also look to be a smaller diameter. Also there should be a threaded hole to allow the brake disc to be secured to the hub. The advanceautoparts search function seems to bring up a lot of options for bearings but none look to be Freelander ones!

Certainly doesn't look right, if you can go by that!

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/rear-hub--bearing-1811-c.asp (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Wheel bearing nightmare.... Starting to be pretty good at this now!! I have gone in the classy trap of buying cheap bearings a few times now, and the result is a pretty short life... I did my LH rear side today, fitted a FAG bearing this time. The old Bearmach bearing which was claimed to be OEM quality lasted only 2 years/60000km`s On my RH side I had first a cheap Ebay bearing, lasted a year. Then fitted a Britpart OEM bearing there. Still going strong after 1,5 year but are monitoring this one closely.
Conclusion -> Dont save your pennies on the bearings. By only decent brands/genuine.

Our MY2015 have been in the man cave for it's first repair. Done about 56,000 miles! Grinding noise from the rear, so I decided to replace both rear with new parts.

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Quick question. I understand the reason for weight on wheels when torquing the suspension bolts, but surely the driveshaft hub nut should be done without weight as otherwise the bearing is loaded before it is torqued correctly? Also just to confirm that the correct figure for this is 330nm then 30 degrees!

Topix says:

Torque: 270 Nm
Tighten the rear halfshaft nut.


Torque:
330 Nm
30°
Stake the hub nut.

I lowered to the ground and fitted the wheel between these 2 stages but Topix says to do it after. FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Thanks for the info.

I have since found an SKF video that advises that weight should definitely be on the bearing when you torque it up. Took forever today to get the circlip out infront of the bearing. I guess after 13 years and 135000 miles it had become part of the hub. Lots of hammer work and releasing fluid and I eventually won. Putting it all together tomorrow and hoping the noise from the rear is gone!

sod all that!i will do a days overtime, and pay my mate in a workshop to do a bearing when it needs one.