Now i have more or less done all the garden jobs that needed doing, fence and shed painting, jet washing the pavers, new plywood and felt on the shed, my next plan is to do the Auto gearbox oil change, which would you say is the best way to make sure you have the right temp of the Box.

I have read through this thread and there seems to be conflicting advice would it be best to use diagnostic equipment to make sure, also once you have dropped 3ltr is it best to run the car for a few miles and repeat, or do it over a week or two.

Look at doing the Modified Gibbons Method. Super easy but you need two people,

I use a Code reader to give the Auto box temperature but found that once the coolant gets up to running temperature the Auto box is around 55C

V40TC wrote:

I did a part change on Sunday Aisin Aw-1 JWS3324 spec.
previously I had been getting a harsh down change or take up in first gear,
car at 40k
I put approx 7 liters through
old oil was brown but un-burnt

transformed gear changes back to silky smooth seamless changes,
oil supplied from Smith and allan on Ebay 01325462228
if you call direct they give an extra 10% off

20litres cost £85 delivered
so plenty for a couple of changes.

Quote:

I used the icarsoft to check the temp was at 60degrees c for level check.

I don't think that is the Auto box temp

Hi Arctic,
Just been out to run through the sequence to check as I began to doubt myself...

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Hi Neil.
Thank you i will go and take a look now also.

do you have this icarsoft.


These were taken about an hour ago after a 20 miles drive, as you can see it only reads 5.33c has opposed to the 60c we are supposed to do the test at.

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Hi Neil.
The Hawkeye was hooked up and these were the readings, remembering i had been for a 20+ drive and the engine was ticking over all the time during these readings using the icarsoft and the Hawkeye, so over a period of time.

Hawkeye readings.
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Only goes to My11 but it must still give you the readings for SD4 Auto.
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Oil temperature reading 81c which would be about right after the drive and car ticking over, presumably
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Flicked to engine oil.
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Then back to transmission, after going through the box from P to D stopping in each section for a few seconds.
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Repeated risen a little.
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Same again repeated
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Unhooked the Hawkeye and went back to the icarsoft.
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Do not think this is the Auto box temp.
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After doing several more tests on both the Hawkeye & Icarsoft, then matching them up, including your last run of photos.

One could possibly say that the 5.33c reading in the transmission temperature - measured section if you were to remove the . point it would in fact read 53.2c i noted this after a few more tests which i will post up.

One when i did a 5.1 mile run locally stopping at light and junctions, round abouts etc, so the box was going through the gears naturally.

One taken from the engine being allowed to cool down for at least four hours.

Last edited by Arctic on 15th Jul 2024 1:10 am. Edited 2 times in total

I dont think you really need to worry about getting the ATF temp bang on.

See here from another forum.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/...at.316726/

"Coefficient of thermal expansion for oils and transmission fluids is around 0.0007 per degree C (0.07%/C). So, if you've got 12 liters in the pan, it will expand 0.0084 L per degree C. Since there's increased volume, and the surface area of the fluid does not change appreciably, the fluid goes higher on the dipstick.

Volume = Area x Height. So, Height = Volume/Area. Therefore, height on the dipstick is proportional to volume change.

Summer time temperature change might be ambient air temperature 68F (20C), at start up, to around 180F(82C) at operating temperature. Or, around 62C.

Therefore, during the summertime, the fluid could be expected to expand 0.0007 x 62C = 0.0434 (4.3%)."


The difference in volume between using ambient temp on a warm day (say 20C) and 60C is only about 3%. So if the gearbox holds 7L you are looking at around 200ml, less if the gearbox has been run for a while. I just use the coolant temp. Jules

dunkley201 wrote:

Freelander 2 Auto Gear box Oil Change (TD4 MY07 to 12)

The specified ATF capacity is 7 litres of Esso JWS3309US (LR002748). In my case I found Mobil ATF3309 meets the identical specification and offered better value using forum sponsor Opie Oils.

I used the �Dump & Fill� method. (This method changes approximately 3 litres ATF each time)

Important Note: Cleanliness is essential when working with the auto gearbox. Slightest ingress of dirt or grit can lead to major expense.

Tools required
A pair of sturdy ramps plus a pair of axle stands to level the vehicle once the front is on the ramps. Alternatively borrow a garage 4-poster lift as I did!
T55 Torx bit � for the fill plug.
17mm hex plug adapter (male driver) � for the main drain plug.
T40 Torx bit � for the �integrated level plug� (found within the main drain plug).
13mm socket or spanner � for the lower engine cover bolts (x6) � mine were so worn I found a 1/2� AF socket worked better!
Spill tray or bowls plus clear plastic bottle or bottles to hold at least 3 litres of fluid per change. Tip: mark the bottles beforehand with graduated quantities to establish exactly how much has been drained.
2 plastic funnels to aid draining into the bottles and refill.
A supply of CLEAN rags plus I recommend a box of disposable latex gloves as the ATF can be harmful to skin.

Spares required
A minimum of 4 litres ATF fluid (I bought 10 litres & used 9)
LR000869 & LR00867 Seals, (O rings) For filler plug and integrated level plug.
LR002461 Gasket, Drain Plug (alloy crush washer)

Torque settings
Filler Plug 30nm
Drain Plug 45nm
Integrated level plug 8nm



GEARBOX FILLER CAP (LOWER CENTRE) VIEWED FROM ABOVE


GEARBOX DRAIN PLUG, WITH LEVEL PLUG IN CENTRE


REPLACEMENT SEALS

The Dump & Fill Method
Open the bonnet and locate the filler plug which can be seen below the Air Filter casing. Ensure the plug and area around the plug is absolutely clean before you start. You do not want the slightest of debris to enter the gearbox once the plug is removed!
Using the T55 Torx bit and appropriate � drive extensions etc, �Crack open� the plug but leave hand tight. (Mine was really tight, needing a breaker bar)
Raise the vehicle on ramps/axle stands so as to gain easy access below the engine. Ensure the vehicle is level and adequately supported.
Remove the lower engine cover using 13mm socket/spanner and put to one side.
Position a spill tray or bowl below the auto box drain.
Locate the gearbox drain plug and, using the T40 Torx bit, start to slacken the integrated level plug, found in the centre of the drain plug.
Have immediately to hand a clear plastic bottle and funnel so as to collect all drained fluid. (You will need to measure the quantity removed to easily know the quantity to refill)
By hand, with the bottle and funnel ready in the other, remove the integrated level plug and catch all the fluid in the bottle. Expect anything from 600ml to 1.4 litre.
Once this has finished draining, you can carefully start to remove the main drain plug with the 17mm hex plug and spanner. NB: the drain plug has an internal tube about 50mm in length. As you unscrew the plug, the internal tube will obviously lower, causing the retained fluid to enter the tube and start to drain out before the plug is removed. Be ready to catch all the fluid! Expect a total of approx 2.1 litres. If you are lucky enough to catch it all, your spill tray will remain dry and you will be able to exactly quantify the top up needed.
When draining has finished, clean the drain plug and refit with the alloy gasket.
Using a clean funnel and new fluid, remove the filler plug and replenish until the fluid starts to drain from the open integrated level hole. Note the quantity replenished. (expect approx 2.1 litre)
Once flow has stopped, refit the integrated level plug with O ring.
Continue with replenishment of the remainder to equal the measured quantity originally removed.
Refit the filler plug.

The engine may now be started. Allow to idle & remain in P for at least 3 minutes. Then run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process at least twice.

Quote:

Level Check
It is specified the fluid level check should be done with the gearbox fluid at 60 degrees C. This can be monitored if you are lucky enough to have sophisticated OBD kit. Otherwise, as in my case, wait until the gearbox casing feels quite warm, about 50 degrees C if you can monitor the casing. Alternatively take a relaxed 5 mile drive.

Once the desired temperature is reached, with the engine still running, again run through all the positions between P and D on the gear selector. Stop at each position for at least 2 seconds. Perform this process at least twice.

Remove the T40 integrated level plug and allow any surplus fluid to drain. If there is no surplus fluid drain, top up 100ml at a time until surplus fluid does drain. Once the steady flow is reduced to a drip, refit the drain plug.

Refit the lower engine cover.

Should you wish to replace more of the fluid, as I did, repeat the above method. It is important the final level check is done with gearbox fluid at 60 degrees or as close as possible.

NB: I found the drained fluid to be totally black, although without any burnt smell. (The fresh fluid is cherry red!) Even with 9 fresh litres, mine only has a hint of red, so I may well be doing this again!

NB2: The above method was used after reference to various posts on this forum, especially those from our learned font of all knowledge, Alex Pescaru, plus searches of various Volvo forums and YouTube.

Bob

Thank you chaps for a useful thread. I have just bought a high mileage 2014 m/y SD4 XS, so will do a fluid change soon. I have bought a 20 litre drum of Mannol Fluid off of eBay, price now around £66.
I have lot of what appears to be transmission related noises. Changes according to speed, different frequencies, not sure which end of the car they relate to. The Auto Box changes well, no obvious clunks, no odd tyre wear, no steering kick. Garage says steering pump, does not sound when idling. It was very bad yesterday after a session of 20mph speed limit. Very strange, and I had all the usual suspects go on my earlier 2009 car, which obviously stripped the front transfer gears, and rear diff. bearings. Back to Aisin gearboxes. Aisin data sheets show that 2010 was a redesign of the internal gear-sets and valves. The coupling splines are the same on all cars according to most parts lists, but Volvo say otherwise. Any ideas chaps, as I might rebuild a transfer box myself for fun, and Input spline incapatability would be a problem for reassembly..

I am reporting that the auto box oil was changed a couple of days ago all went well, 3.7lt out same back in, it will be done again over the next month then again so in stages.

I will put up some photos etc later when i have the time today it's brake caliper and discs including new hoses.

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You're a lot more organised with your gear then me! Liking the labeling on everything.... might have to do that myself.

Sure is a nice feeling after getting the gearbox fluid changed.

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Grue

You're a lot more organised with your gear then me! Liking the labeling on everything.... might have to do that myself.
Sure is a nice feeling after getting the gearbox fluid changed.

Yes i like to be organised for jobs to be carried out.
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