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Pete The Biker



Member Since: 30 Sep 2012
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 77

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

I get a vibration and a sort of booming noise at around 1900rpm when cruising at low throttle opening. It is very specific to that rpm.

I have always assumed it was resonance in the exhaust.

Pete 2007 TD4 HSE Auto

Post #309710 26th Oct 2016 11:48 am
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Dave47



Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: Margate Kent
Posts: 1333

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Izmir Blue

Hi Zorba, was the cause of this vibration ever found?
it appears mine has started vibrating around 1800 > 2000 RPM when under load Sad
Dave DAVE.

Post #318807 4th Mar 2017 5:03 pm
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freelanderi6



Member Since: 28 Dec 2011
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 3

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey
Vibration problem solved....finally

Afternoon everyone. Several months ago my i6 developed an annoying resonance between 1500 and 2000 rpm, when accelerating lightly, after a deceleration. I can only describe the sound as “naaaar!”, and it would disappear on lifting the accelerator, only to come back when it was pressed again.
I tried...gearbox /torque converter flush, twice, adjusting bonnet, replaced cat, replaced exhaust, replaced power steering pump, replaced ancillary belt and pulleys...and this week replaced the engine mounts. Noise still there😕

It was when I was changing the lower engine isolator mount I noticed that its heatshield ‘rings’ like a tuning fork when you tap it. Also, there’s a group of 4 pipes with heatshield sheaths right next to it, with one of the pipes coming straight from the engine casing (i.e. it was subject to engine vibration, and is also clipped to an ‘isolated’ part of the subframe!).The pipes are secured with plastic pipe clips, however mine had perished, and also the heatshield material had crushed so it was smaller than the clip.

How I fixed it (you can try at your own discretion and at your own risk....just covering my a*s)...
1. Working from underneath, apply self adhering class 0 fire retardant (solid, not aerosol) insulating foam to the underside of the engine isolator mount heatshield.
2. Remove o/s front wheel and pull back the plastic inner arch (nearest the door) to gain access to the pipes
3. Inspect and tap the pipes, and if they rattle, discard the plastic clips and secure them using cable ties, but put some more fire retardant insulating foam between the pipes and the metal bracket.
That’s it! Not heard or felt the resonance since....fingers crossed.

It was a very expensive and frustrating exercise going through the trial and error diagnosis, but hopefully it saves some other Freelander owners going through the same. All donations gratefully received 😂

Post #345160 16th Mar 2018 5:15 pm
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AussieJames



Member Since: 19 Jan 2019
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Buckingham Blue

My 2011 SD4 has exactly what Zorba described at the start of this thread. The vibration happens in every gear at about 1400-1800 RPM. Its not just a vibration or something loose and resonating. At its worst the whole car shakes.
LR authorised dealer told me its the rear diff, so I pulled the fuse for the Haldex unit to disable drive to the rear wheels and the issue is still there, just the same, so probably not the diff or Haldex. I dont see that it would be either of those as issues there would relate to road speed, not engine speed.
Would love to hear from anyone who has solved this issue.

Post #364265 21st Jan 2019 1:04 am
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Pal



Member Since: 28 Nov 2015
Location: Budapest
Posts: 45

Hungary 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

In my opinion this issue is related either to engine or gearbox mounts, front drive shafts may be, but definitely something mechanical from the front.

Post #365338 2nd Feb 2019 7:29 pm
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AussieJames



Member Since: 19 Jan 2019
Location: Sydney
Posts: 5

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Buckingham Blue

My problem was resolved today with the auto transmission being flushed and filled with new fluid. Transmission specialist diagnosed slippage in the lock-up mechanism of the torque convertor as the cause. He recommends a flush and renew the fluid every 40,000-50,000km.

Post #365556 5th Feb 2019 2:36 am
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Pal



Member Since: 28 Nov 2015
Location: Budapest
Posts: 45

Hungary 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Nice to hear that...I’ve flushed mine 5’000 km ago and still have the vibration...

Post #365557 5th Feb 2019 6:45 am
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Carel Kriek



Member Since: 01 Aug 2016
Location: Stellenbosch, Western Cape
Posts: 134

South Africa 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

dorsetfreelander wrote:
We had something like this and it turned out to be a front drive shaft. The inner rubber boot didn't have a securing clip on it (only a cable tie!) which had allowed water to get in and ruin the joint. The only way to test was to raise each wheel and see if there was any play in the CV joints, if you did it with the wheel on the ground then you couldn't feel the play.
The point here was that when the joint goes under load the spider in the loose joint can be "held" in different positions so that the the vibration is sometimes worse than at other times. (hope that makes sense)


Good answer! I have found this many times with CV joints that has worn past a certain limit. 2013 SD4 SE (hers)
2013 SD4 HSE (mine)
Ex: 2008 D3 V8 HSE
EX: 2000 D2 TD5

Post #365558 5th Feb 2019 7:06 am
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Pal



Member Since: 28 Nov 2015
Location: Budapest
Posts: 45

Hungary 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

OK, CV joints and drive shafts - some wrote here they have change theirs and the vibration has stayed...what costs are we talking about to change a drive shaft?

Post #365559 5th Feb 2019 7:48 am
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