After self-fixing my boiler last year http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic25236.html its still working fine but thinking of changing it.

Currently about 20 years old, never serviced it but was thinking of changing it for a Combi-system. Apart from getting something more efficient, I've been riding my luck for years and could do away with the two header tanks, pump, diverter valve, immersion tank etc.

Currently have a 60,000- BTU boiler so what equivalent Kw would I need? Also, If I did this I know some change to the plumbing would be required but do you think it would be worth a power flush at the same time - water comes out black when drained - never had any inhibitor in it. Should I change the rad valves at the same time?

Also, presumably, I'll have better pressure at the shower head with this system? Do they have good continuous hot water - one we had 30 years ago was useless in the cold weather and we had to turn the bath taps down to a dribble to get any heat into the water. What makes are good and are there any makes to avoid? Anything else I've missed?

Finally, and I know this could be tricky, does anyone have any idea of a rough price I should be paying foir a decent boiler, changes to the pipework and a power flush on a 3 bed house?

Thanks Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
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We replaced our 14 year old Combi with a more efficient one last year, went for an 'Ideal Logic plus' combi. Rated at 30kW or 102,000 BTU for our 3 bedroom house, it does the CH very fast and no loss of hot water when showering if anyone runs cold water or flushes the loo, and the water although not instant is always hot.

Really cut down on gas usage also.

Near silent in running, the local plumber quoted £780 for the boiler and £300 for fitting including flush and inhibitor, this was for replacing to the same spot on the wall with a change to the pipework, and changes to condensate piping regarding latest regs.
Here at 9.00am and gone by 1.00pm.

Had a Valiant fitted a few years ago it's been excellent.

Ideal Logic plus every time yes you need to have the system cleaned and thermostatic rad valves fitted also fit a In line lime scale inhibitor. The boiler modulates as it does it will use less gas.combi boilers do need reasonable water pressure

I've got a local firm coming round on Friday to quote me for the work but over the phone they reckoned £2.5-£3K. Sounds a bit expensive to me. I'll see what they say then get another quote from a Gas Safe one man band as a comparison. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
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i had my old back boiler, hot water tank and gas fire ripped out in June, Replaced the boiler and hot water tank with a Worcester-Bosch combi 28 in the space in the airing cupboard left from the hot water tank. my house is medium sized 3 bed detached with 8 radiators.

involved new holes for vents etc, new gas pipe runs, and some mods to the CH/water pipework, inline filters and condensation pump (to remove excess moisture from the evaporator apparently)

total cost was £2100 cash.

Hot water pressure is 200% improvement over the previous trickle, no massive drop in pressure with multiple taps on (ive had washer, dishwasher, shower and toilet all drawing at the same time) and although there is a 15 second wait for hot water its on demand and unlimited.

CH is very noticeably hotter and quicker than before too.

Ive replaced some radiators, (only £90 for a large unit) and flushed out the black gunk from others (remove them off the wall into the garden and apply hose pipe)

hope this info helps mate

have fun

Thanks. I was thinking of Worcester Bosch, probably because I've seen the adverts. but looking online at reviews, they don't come out very well at all. Only get 2 out of 5. That's confused me somewhat! http://www.reviewcentre.com/reviews120948.html Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
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Few people bother to post good reviews on those sites, and if you look at some of the other boiler makes they fare little better. I've had a Worcester Bosch (albeit oil-fired and floor-standing) for over three years now with no problems at all.

Replacing a traditional system with a combi can involve quite a bit of work re-plumbing everything, as all the pipework to the old tanks has to be removed and hot and cold systems re-routed instead to the boiler, condensate drain needs to be installed, etc. So if they're doing the job properly, installing new TRVs, magnetic filter, flush through, etc, £2.5 - £3k doesn't sound too unreasonable.

Find a local tradesman and do a labour only deal - you buy the boiler direct from a supplier = save a fortune  No Longer the owner of a 2013MY Fuji White GS

"Fiat Lux" a philosophy not a car

Worcester Bosch had a problem with their alloy heat exchangers failing in some areas due to electrolytic action, some within a year, due to this there were modifications and a 4/5 year warranty introduced to increase confidence. Personally I prefer a stainless steel or copper heat exchanger my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
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pab wrote:

Few people bother to post good reviews on those sites, and if you look at some of the other boiler makes they fare little better. I've had a Worcester Bosch (albeit oil-fired and floor-standing) for over three years now with no problems at all.

Replacing a traditional system with a combi can involve quite a bit of work re-plumbing everything, as all the pipework to the old tanks has to be removed and hot and cold systems re-routed instead to the boiler, condensate drain needs to be installed, etc. So if they're doing the job properly, installing new TRVs, magnetic filter, flush through, etc, £2.5 - £3k doesn't sound too unreasonable.

pab wrote:

Few people bother to post good reviews on those sites, and if you look at some of the other boiler makes they fare little better. I've had a Worcester Bosch (albeit oil-fired and floor-standing) for over three years now with no problems at all.

Replacing a traditional system with a combi can involve quite a bit of work re-plumbing everything, as all the pipework to the old tanks has to be removed and hot and cold systems re-routed instead to the boiler, condensate drain needs to be installed, etc. So if they're doing the job properly, installing new TRVs, magnetic filter, flush through, etc, £2.5 - £3k doesn't sound too unreasonable.

It really depends on your house a modern 3 bed with an indirect hot water system can be fairly easy and quick, however with houses or bungalows with extensions it can become complicated, when I re-plumbed my house for a combi it was quite time consuming as the boiler was in the centre and fed both ways but no cold water supply to the boiler, the two ends of the house were fed from two different cold water supplies, such are the joys of living in a commercial property converted to domestic. One advantage though is a 3phase power supply, second hand industrial machines are much cheaper than domestic ones and draw less amps in the wiring.  my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

combi's are great if your HW demand is not huge (greater than 17 approx litres per minute - 2 ish showers).
Power flush is mandatory - most manufactures wont warranty the heat exchanger if you dont get it done, besides by your own admission you dont have inhibitor, so it is really really needed.
TRV's - again a must, false economy not to fit them
Modern thermostat / programmer - again a must, and false economy not to fit one
Magnatron ( whatever the spelling is !) magnetic filter - again a must
electrolytic scale inhibitor - IMHO worth it - check http://www.screwfix.com/p/liff-electrolyti...Au9d8P8HAQ

Worcester Bosch - 100% yes, I have had a few fitted as I used to work for them, no issues.
2-3k seems a good price if it includes TRV's, Magnatron, programmer, flue, certification, and Local Authority notification

edit - Oh, whats your water flow from the cold tap nearest the mains, its should be checked before going down the combi route to ensure your mains water can supply the volume that the boiler is capable of heating. Easiest way to check is turn off all taps, fill a bucket for 30 seconds then draw a line at water level, measure volume of water and double to give litres per minute. Worth repeating when another mains cold tap is running to check you can supply two taps with good flow at the same time. Flow is often more important than pressure, people often moan about low pressure when fact they have good static pressure but poor flow ( like me until very recently when I had a new water mains moled in.)
Flo test is also worth doing on your existing hot Water to comp[are it to any new combi boliers specifications

for kicks, here is my CH manifold, as I am refurbishing room by room over time, having this saves me a lot of time and money as I add new radiators and more inhibitor

 

Well, I have TRV's but with no inhibitor, no power flush, no servicing, old fashioned thermostat and controller and no magnetic filter I think the systems done bloody marvelous to still be running perfectly and to have supplied me with heating and hot water for 23 years with only electronic problems letting me down. Bit like an old Defender vs a FL2 eh?  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
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sounds just like the system I just removed from my house - old, functional, but due for replacement.

My Gas bill went down 75% overnight