I've got some rather heavy gates to my yard (each gate made up of two 6'X4' sheets of 20mm ply on a 4"x2" frame) so EACH GATE is approx 6' high by 8' wide. They in turn are hinged onto a piece of 4"x2" timber bolted to a 9" concrete post by three 12mm rawlbolts.

My problem is that every now and then due to the extreme weight, the bolts pull out and it's a to replace them.

I'm thinking of removing them all and replacing the bolts with studs held in with a resin fixing.

Anyone on here that uses resin fixings that can tell me whether a resin fixing will be better than a bolted one and if so, any recommendations? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

We occasionaly use resin ones at work. The ones we use come in a tube which you put into the drilled hole then either hammer or drill the threaded rod into the capsule which bursts it. I thought it was called Chemfix but I've had a google and can't find the ones I thought they were...

Thanks. What sort of weight do they hold? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

farmers trick is to put a wheel on each gate end, if floor levels allow At work
At home

"I can't always believe facts I read on the web" - Charles Dickens

winner by default of the tractor vs caravan race

Fischer chemical fixings, Screwfix stock the stuff.
Its not cheap but it will do the trick, we use it for securing x-ray machines to walls.
A word of caution, do not get the ixed compound on your skin, and do not touch the bolt once inserted, it will get extremely hot!

Also, why have you a piece of wood that will rot in there, get a steel box section.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-vt-v...80ml/14364

chicken george wrote:

farmers trick is to put a wheel on each gate end, if floor levels allow

taztastic wrote:

Fischer chemical fixings, Screwfix stock the stuff.
Its not cheap but it will do the trick, we use it for securing x-ray machines to walls.
A word of caution, do not get the ixed compound on your skin, and do not touch the bolt once inserted, it will get extremely hot!

Also, why have you a piece of wood that will rot in there, get a steel box section.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fis-vt-v...80ml/14364

Thanks. It only needs to last another year or two before the whole lot will be taken down for redevelopment. The wood is holding fine - its the connection to the post that's the problem.

Click image to enlarge

The left hand gate folds back on itself and then opens. I need them that wide to get cars into the workshop as I have to come in at an angle..

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Ah, I see, the Fischer stuff will do it

if you have access to the kit then a easy, quick, cheap and reliable fix that should last a while is
to use a few Polyprop straps around the wooden and concrete post to hold them together - or something else similar

The sort of plastic straps you see round large parcels eg : http://www.rajapack.co.uk/packaging-tape-s...ories.html

Not suggesting you buy it, but perhaps you know someone, or can use rope etc to similar effect.

Or, just drill through concrete post all the way and use a long bolt -that will hold for ever. 

A bit of luck for a change! I only have problems with the left hand gate and I've just had a look around and found the original Heavy Duty hinges for the left gate only (F knows what happened to the R/H ones)! They must have been taken off about 10 years ago! See, NEVER chuck anything away! I 'think' I should be able to fit them back onto the post with new studding and screw the 4X2" to the gate and hinge the lot. Whaddya think?

Click image to enlarge

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

they look ideal, and importantly will change the way load is applied to the rawbolts from tension to shear, which should mean they stay in place