Recently came across this procedure for changing the Freelander 2 timing belt. I'm sure somebody will find it of use.
http://pmmonline.co.uk/technical/timing-be...elander-2/

Pictures and specifications taken from this videoclip on youtube:

I'm changing mine tomorrow and my sphincter has began to pucker. I have watched this video a few times and feel reasonably confident.

Wish me luck

g

Good luck!

Lol. I like the way his finger hovers over the start/stop button as if he would prevent any damage should he have got the timing wrong by quickly shutting off!

Personally, I always turn the engine over by hand for a couple of revolutions before starting up just to make sure nothing is hitting. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Thanks Steve. I'll be sure to report back on this and will try to rotate manuallyif compression isnt an issue.

g

Well, What a complete faff.

Snapped a socket trying to undo the crank bolt and that was Sunday so had to wait till this morning to go buy another socket, bigger breaker bar and 1/2" extension. The Incredible Hulk must snigged that up at the factory.

The cam locking pin got jammed in a bunch of other minor issues. The Crank bolt would not go to 82 degrees after 70NM only got to 60 but there is noway that thing will come off with the force I had to use to get it that far.

11 hours all up to date (over 2 days) did heaps of rotations by hand and it fired up with no problems. Just sorting out the coolant now.

So many people should be glad I'm not a mechanic.

g

Going to do mine soon, don't think I have the muscles to snap a socket though  
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

If anyone local wants the timing pins for the price of "gratis", let me know and I'll pay for postage (but only local postage).

g

grod wrote:

The Crank bolt would not go to 82 degrees after 70NM only got to 60 but there is noway that thing will come off with the force I had to use to get it that far.

Odd thing, in the 2011 manual, in the specifications table it says 60 degrees, but later, on the procedure details, it says 82 degrees. Don't know why they changed figures, but, like you've said, 60 is more than enough.

I have just done mine, but I have to admit I don't understand why the pulley and sensor ring have to be removed. What actual purpose does the removal of the Crankshaft pulley and sensor ring serve ? 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Did you managed to remove the lower plastic cover without removing the pulley and the sensor ring???
Because without removing the cover you can't remove the belt from what I am remembering...

Never done this myself, but I saw a video once where instead of removing the cam belt they cut it in half length ways and only removed the outer half thus maintaining the timing. The new cambelt was them slipped sideways onto the pulleys. Then the remaining half of the old belt was cut off and the new belt slid the rest of the way across. At no time was the camshaft left to untimed. Dont know if this would work with the Freelander though. Just a thought. Jules

It's often the tensioners that throw a belt so it's not recommended in my World. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

alex_pescaru wrote:

Did you managed to remove the lower plastic cover without removing the pulley and the sensor ring???
Because without removing the cover you can't remove the belt from what I am remembering...

Yup, that'll be it . What polluted my thinking was the Haynes manual implies removing the whole lot each time, but checking the LR Workshop manual, you don't put the guard back on and so you only need to slacken off the pulley for the re-tensioning checks. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.