I'm adjusting to my 2010 sd4 and because I've never had an automatic, just wondering about a few things I've noticed. The first is the changing down gears isn't always as seamless as the up changes. For example coming up to a roundabout under braking, it feels like a bit more of a surge / jault going down the gears than it does when accelerating. Is this a characteristic of the auto box or is something I need to be checked out?

Also when pulling away I can hear a faint high pitched whine (and I mean just about audible if you listen carefully) before it changes to 2nd. After that I can't really hear anything.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Gary

I have a manual, so don't have any experience, others may say this is normal or not?. This may be useful, how many miles have you done? http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic18118.htm...oil+change

Those small jolts on changing down are normal up to a point, especially under energetic braking.
Have them on my FL2, have them on my lady's VW Polo, which is equipped with a similar box.

It's only occasional too. I was wondering if it was different amount of throttle input or preselected gears depending on gradient or torque etc

They are small. Sometimes it's smooth with barely anything felt. Other times it's a small jerk. If it's a normal thing then fair enough. Might get a landy technician to drive it with me as they drive the things every day so would instantly be able to identify anything out of the ordinary!

Thanks for the replies.

My SD4 auto start off in 2nd gear unless you are in Sport Commandshift doing it manually which is rare for me. I find all gear changes smooth in both my SD4, 63 and 14 plates.

Just had a landy technician drive it and said everything was as normal. Peace of mind !

My friend back in the 70's said a mechanic had been out in his car and said in was normal and nothing to worry about, it had a hole in one piston.

The moral is the verdict depends on how much its going to cost the dealer to fix rather than the owner to fix on whether its classed as normal or not.

It wasn't the supplying dealer. They would have billed the dealer I bought it from up the line.

I had this but had a "reset" so it learnt my style and it cured the jolts.

That is interesting you say that, I have noticed it not happened for a few days now so I think you could be right. Maybe its adapting to my smooth driving style etc

Hi Alex,

I see you are an expert in all topics for FL2, i hope you will be able to help me with some probably easy info.
I want my service to change transmission oil in my car (2007 td4, automatic),i know it has the swf21 box and also the fluid type is known for me.

Can you may be send a link for me from the maintenance book or any advices what to beware? Any special details to bear in mind may be? Tips and tricks?


Thanks in advance and br
Pal

The procedure is here: https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...Refill.pdf

I am partially changing the oil in my box since about 60.000km, on each service. This mean every 10-12.000 km.
The box holds 7 liter from dry. The oil that drains is exactly 3 liters. So, at each service I am changing less than half, but in this way I keep, in a way, a cleaner oil inside.
The price here, in Romania, for 1 liter is about 10 euros. So additional 30 euros at each service, for peace of mind, is not much.
For your box (and mine) the oil is JWS3309, Mobil having an ATF3309 that I am using.

On the first change I've observed the followings:
- the drained oil was exactly 3 liters.
- the new filled oil, after following the procedure, was exactly 3 liters - so obviously at the factory they filled the correct oil quantity.
- at the next oil change the drained quantity was exactly 3 liters, so no oil loss, between changes.

So, from that point, my procedure for changing is:
- drop the old oil through the drain plug, and verify is 3 liters.
- install back the drain plug
- fill through the upper filling plug 3 fresh new liters, without checking further.
That's all.

The filling principle is below, the level checking being done with the engine running, in Park:

Thanks a lot, would it be too difficult to flush all the 6-7 liters out of the gearbox, or why do you do it partially? It is quite strange that not all the 6-7 liters can be drained easily....

Anyhow, your below info is much appreciated!

A lot of oil is remaining in the torque converter. The TC doesn't have a drain point.

It would be possible to drain/flush the entire oil quantity, by the use of the "transfusion" method.
You insert a flushing machine on one of the transmission cooling lines.
As the transmission pump is circulating the oil, you collect the old one and insert instead a fresh one.
A member has managed to flush the transmission here: http://www.freel2.com/forum/post137177.html#137177

But it's too complicated for me. Therefore I've choose to "refresh" the oil at each service.