The system is a little more sophisticated than the fan simply switching on.
From memory the fan/fans have 4 levels/speeds so I would imagine the Engine Control Module/CPU would have a list of "conditions" that would decide which speed the fan/fans would be called for. MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

Got a little warm today in Sydney, but no overheating issues so looks like the new fans have sorted it.

Click image to enlarge

You guys in the east are really coping it this year.
Betta throw another "shrimp" on tha BBQ - or is that the bonnet of a Black i6 FL2????  MY15
Tyre Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS)
Surround Camera System
InControl Apps soon to be replaced with CarPlay (WIP)
Meridian Premium Surround Sound
Digital Audio Broadcast
Timed Climate
Cruise ECO Data
Follow Me Home Reverse
Extra Features Menu
Picture In Motion
4x4i screen (WIP)
Digital Broadcast TV
Meridian Rear Media with WIFI
Factory Powered Tailgate
Blind Spot Monitoring (BSM)
Reverse Cross Traffic Alert (RCTA)
Electrochromatic Wing Mirrors (WIP)

Hi guys, I apologies for jumping in on this thread, but I need some help solving my radiator fan woes
I have a 2007 TD4, the fans will not turn on when the vehicle running, including the AC fan.
I have checked the fan module and it works. Mine works in another vehicle and a working module will not work in my car.
I have done a continuity test on the purple wire, pin to pin and all is good.
I have 12v on the main connectors.
The fans work, they actually run when I switch the car off (to protect the electronics).

With the motor running I have 3.55v on the little purple wire, measured to ground.

I don't have an oscilloscope to check the signal from the ECU.

PS I changed the coolant temperature sensor, as well hoping to fix this. I have checked fuses and relays all working and good. I know I need a new thermostat as mine is stuck open, driving on a freeway the temp drops right down.

I hope one of you can help with a little advice. Thank you Thanks

SMG

Cambo wrote:

Well this happened to me. Radiator fans not working, A/C gone warm, car running hot when not moving.

After reading a number of posts on some other forums, predominanty in the USA and Australia where the 3.2 is more common, it seems that the fan motors themselves actually wear out. Well the brushes at least.

So I bought the "hot climate" twin fan assembly as a replacement, according to JLR hot climate is the Middle East only, I guess for the LR boffins Australia and South Africa is "nice" rather than "hot" LOL. And as it turns out the twin fan is quite a bit cheaper than the single one. Work that out...

Single fan assembly p/n LR026078, GBP £357
Twin fan assembly p/n LR011905, GBP £289

(these are UK list prices btw, you will probably pay different, as I did, cheers to Dan at Duckworths for sorting me out)

You used to be able to buy the fan control relay module for the single fan assembly as a spare, but not anymore. I guess Land Rover got sick of people buying modules when the fan motor crapped out, and then complaining that it still wasn't fixed.

The twin fan assembly comes with a new module anyhow.

While doing the fan I was planning on replacing the thermostat and the accessory drive belt (it's due in 20k), but i'm a bit time poor this week and the wife wants her car back on the road, so i'll leave that all for the next service.

So instead of pulling the intake manifold as per the workshop manual, i decided to swap out the fans using the bumper off method instead (had been recommended down here in Oz)

Click image to enlarge

Headlights and bumper off, ducting removed.

Click image to enlarge

New twin fan vs. old single

Click image to enlarge

New fan assembly in. Honestly this was a struggle. To get the old fan out you have to remove the control relay module, and move the bottom of the radiator forwards and backwards as you pull the fan out. The locking tabs on the fan also get caught up in various hoses. With a bit of patience and struggle, I got the old one out. The new one did seem to go in a bit easier.

Click image to enlarge

And all back together

The single fan is a 500W unit according to the workshop manual, with the twin fans being 750W. The twins certainly shift a lot more air.

I reckon finding a replacement fan motor would be easy enough, maybe someone down the track could benefit from a rebuilt unit.

All back together now, wife has her car back again, running cool.

First of all, thank you to all of those who posted what the problem is and how to fix it.

I had the same problem and replaced the fan assembly with the hot climate version.

I wanted to add a few points to help people with doing this:

1) When you remove the shield within the wheel arch, note that two of the nuts (two on each side, can be tricky to remove) are plastic one-use nuts, these may need replacing when you put your car back together.

2) I found it easier to also remove the crossbeam behind the bumper (8 bolts), this makes the job easier and will also stop damage to the front of the aircon radiator - as you have very little space to get the fans out and back in again. You do not need to unplug the horns that are attached, just release some of the plugs holding the wires onto the crossbeam - so that you can rest the crossbeam out of the way. Make sure you use the correct torque setting when putting this back on, maybe someone can post the correct setting for this?

3) Be careful when pulling out the radiator from its support, I managed to snap one of the plastic guides (one on the left and right hand side at the bottom, these support the radiator and can be easily broken).


Alan