The tyres all need to be quite close wear wise so just fitting rears could throw the running if they are widely different. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

All good points but I am pretty sure (as one can be) that it is not tyres or wheel bearings. My main question is about switching the haldex on and off and driving. If there is effectively no difference in the noise does this prove or disprove that it is the diff? Thanks for helping!

As you have ruled out any other unit it seems you are left with the diff then. Bell engineering can supply you with one no doubt, they will advise you very professionally before taking your money if you contact them. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

jcp-123 wrote:

All good points but I am pretty sure (as one can be) that it is not tyres or wheel bearings. My main question is about switching the haldex on and off and driving. If there is effectively no difference in the noise does this prove or disprove that it is the diff? Thanks for helping!

sounds like diff bearings to me. as the road noise increases the diff sounds get less

try putting the back seats down and removing the parcel shelf and spare wheel etc then you can really hear the noise

I did the same thing removing the fuse to disconnect the haldex
And it also made no difference to the sound
Not forgetting the rear diff only gets switched in when the front wheels start loosing grip

jcp-123 wrote:

All good points but I am pretty sure (as one can be) that it is not tyres or wheel bearings. My main question is about switching the haldex on and off and driving. If there is effectively no difference in the noise does this prove or disprove that it is the diff? Thanks for helping!

You need to ask the garage that question. A wheel bearing can sound noisy like a diff noise but usually swings in and out on cornering, could be the front transfer box etc etc etc.

That is why many of us deal with Bell Engineering outside any warranty. May not always be local but worth the journey IMHO FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

jcp-123 wrote:

jcp-123 wrote:

All good points but I am pretty sure (as one can be) that it is not tyres or wheel bearings. My main question is about switching the haldex on and off and driving. If there is effectively no difference in the noise does this prove or disprove that it is the diff? Thanks for helping!

Update: my local garage has changed the diff not once but twice now, with reconditioned units. Noise still there!!! Could it be the haldex? Drive shaft?

Don't trust what a dealer says - they are looking at you as a cash injection, and will always start with the highest priced job first.

Find a mechanic with a set of Steelmans (wireless chassis ears), who knows how to use them properly, or a mechanic like Bell Engineering. It would have been worth the journey!

Hi all,

I am thinking to buy a 2012 LR2 i6. I guess the rear differential bearing problem only in 2007 to 2011 models. If any one faced the rear differential bearing problem on 2012 models or anyone driving 2012 model, please advise me on this.

Many thanks in advance.

Nibbraz

I know of failures in a MY13 car so no one year is a 100% perfect FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

As above, whilst 13MY> used improved larger bearings in the rear diff, some have still failed. No vehicle is seemingly immune from this problem, although the risk should be less theoretically.

My 2010 FL2 recently had a rotational noise that was diagnosed by Austen at Bell Engineering and my Independent LR mechanic that both said rear diff replacement. £800 later and still there... PTU replacement advised and £1,000 later the noise is still there.... Pulling my hair out!!!

Any ideas? Bearing Shaft CV joint?

Are your tyres all good and even tread wear?

Have the wheel bearings been checked very carefully? Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......