Hello there,

I've been playing around yesterday and got stuck in a muddy area. Perfect opportunity to test a "Bogout" recovery kit - as seen in the attached video:



Now... as I only had one rope, it didn't work - apparently because of a lack of rear diff lock to keep the rigged wheel engaged.
Reading around, I understand that Terrain Response should use ABS/TC to limit wheel slippage, but it didn't seem to be the case - the opposite wheel was turning merrily

Any ideas - is there a special TR mode I need to select - I've tried both mud and sand mode - or some other tricks I could use so that I get the rear diff lock effect?

thanks,
Valentin

You didn't generate enough RPM for TR to properly function.
You need to get the RPM over 2200, because TR works by braking individual wheels and it's programmed to really work only over a certain RPM to avoid stalling the engine.
For an automatic you can't stall the engine, indeed, but on a manual.... And it's designed to be the same for both manual and auto.
This is why you've seen a lot of wheel spin, but little torque to the "adherent" wheel.
Nevertheless, it's clearly seen that at the end, there was a little torque to the tied wheel when you dropped the RPM at 1:10.

I think that 2200 rpm is too high. In reality, the wheel spins too much before it kicks in. If you watch a D3 or D4, the tc kicks in if the wheel spins barely one revolution.
edit- you need one on each wheel. You get a better pull that way. You have to be careful they don't slip off and wrap around the inside of the wheel.

D3 and D4 have a different TC hardware/software.
Remember, I've said avoiding stalling the engine...
D3 and D4 have low range and for the same RPM, the spin at the wheels is much less in low range.
Also you can't really stall the engine in a low range... Of course, you can, but it's more difficult.
So therefore you won't see the same wheel spin, as on the case of FL2, until the TR kicks in and in low range you can control much better the wheel spin.

Thanks.

Will give it another try. Waiting for some warmer weather though, washing the car in freezing weather was a real pain...

Keep you posted,
Valentin

alex_pescaru wrote:

D3 and D4 have a different TC hardware/software.
Remember, I've said avoiding stalling the engine...
D3 and D4 have low range and for the same RPM, the spin at the wheels is much less in low range.
Also you can't really stall the engine in a low range... Of course, you can, but it's more difficult.
So therefore you won't see the same wheel spin, as on the case of FL2, until the TR kicks in and in low range you can control much better the wheel spin.

Interesting video!

The bit about HDC, in reverse, with a stalled engine in neutral...would it really have managed to slow a heavily laden car on a steep slope, without servo assistance to the brakes? 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Good question, one for the experts I think. Logically, I would think that the HDC can't use the power assistance because that applies to the whole brake system at once, while HDC only brakes an individual wheel independently of all the other wheels. But I'm no expert, I just drive the car and hope the computer knows what its doing.

Worms wrote:

Interesting video!

The bit about HDC, in reverse, with a stalled engine in neutral...would it really have managed to slow a heavily laden car on a steep slope, without servo assistance to the brakes?