Had a thought (rare but true ) and wondered if anyone knows the approximate answer.

Assuming a good battery and no unusual drain how many starts would you get before the dreaded won't start,can't start,low battery warning. I often have to do a two car shuffle as I prefer mine garaged and often it gets started/moved but not driven to recharge the battery. I do have a Ctec so not really a problem, just wondering really. When it does get driven it gets a good run to clear the crap out. FL2 Metropolis, Loire Blue, ebony/ivory

Looks like I might have to do a little experimenting over the coming week. I'll let you know how i get on  FL2 Metropolis, Loire Blue, ebony/ivory

My battery is original so it's about 8 years old now,mine gets used infrequently sometimes like you say the two car shuffle,I do a reconditioning charge now and again and as the weather is warming up it doesn't seem to be a problem. Winter was different though it sounded pretty laboured a few times. Had the battery checked and it passed I think it's just a bit tired.

Never thought about temperature, might be worth doing a summer experiment and one during a prolonged cold spell if we ever get one. FL2 Metropolis, Loire Blue, ebony/ivory

Here is some reading material:

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/quest...r-starting

Don't forget the deeper you discharge & on a regular basis a lead acid car battery (not deep cycle) the quicker you shorten its life. You should aim to NOT allow the charge of a car battery to fall below 90% as it will have trouble providing full voltage to crank the engine. Also sulfation of the plates decreases battery life.

At the end of the day you really don't want to be starting the car too frequently without a good run to charge the battery up to 100%.

Deep cycle batteries are different as they are not for cranking & can be discharged up to 75%, but it is still better not to discharge them this much if you are repeatedly relying on them, like in a UPS. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Last edited by Lightwater on 10th May 2015 7:57 am. Edited 1 time in total

bbrap wrote:

Never thought about temperature, might be worth doing a summer experiment and one during a prolonged cold spell if we ever get one.

Fortunately I have a reasonably good spare which I will sacrifice, not my less than year old original .I was well aware of the potential for ruining a perfectly good battery but thanks for the warnings. Being a boat owner which has a bank of leisure batteries I know the importance of state of charge and not dropping too low. I may use the smartgauge off the boat to monitor the state of charge when the warning messages begin to appear. FL2 Metropolis, Loire Blue, ebony/ivory

I recall the days when you could take out the battery and give it a good shake then undo the filler caps and tip out the electrolyte together with the loose lead sulphate and other crud that was shorting out the plates at the bottom. Then refill with new or old filtered sulphuric acid and the battery was good for a couple more years.  3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE