Well the rear diff pinion bearing has failed again. First happened at 50,000 and now again at 82,000.
Not amused and neither is the dealer! 1998 300TDi Auto Disco, never to be forgotten.
2008 Auto TD4 Freelander2, now gone?
2013 Auto SD4 Freelander!
A proud member of Landytown.com
Visit our blog at
http://paullizlifeontheopenroad.blogspot.com/ updated October 2017

Absolutely disgraceful. What is wrong with these cars? Someone somewhere must know why these fail.

The Freelander 2 is the first car I have owned that has had a diff problem (even counting fwd cars!) therefore I can only assume that the design is not adequate for the job. Does anyone know if the design and/or bearing size has been changed over the life of the vehicle and is the same unit being used in other vehicles like the new DS? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I have begun running mine without FB6 fitted. Does anyone know if this will do any harm in the longer term? I don't see why it would.
Hopefully it can manage to rotate the unloaded rear drive train without a bearing failure.

What is FB6? Is it the fuse feeding the Haldex? 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Yes, that's the one.
Although I haven't had a problem yet, these failures of the rear drive from the xfer gear backwards appear so common it feels like Russian roulette every time I use the car.

Just an observation from a MY15 Owner!!!
I've been following this forum quite closely and each time looking at problems that have been raised on here as possibly issues and subsequent actions from LR.
I've also been looking over my brand new FL2 and i must say I'm very pleased to discover in most cases obviously LR have listened and taken action on newer models and rectified issues.
As per the rear diff, well time will tell, but based on what I've observed on the forum and looking over my last build model then I'm confident this has been resolved.
I've not seen anyone on here running Gen V Haldex have issues?

Software update would be my first check?!
Only because it would appear that windup on a non slippery surface would contribute to this and i was led to believe that the Haldex was engaged from a standstill up until a certain speed unless slippage was detected. I'm talking General program selected of course. Subsequent software updates on earlier models where designed to relieve this condition by alterations to the software from inputs such as steering wheel inputs, throttle, anti-lock sensors etc.

That's why I would confirm software is up to date.

I think it's a bit early with a MY15 for you to say that the problems have been generally resolved. I don't think there has been any change in the throttle body design or the power steering filter issues or door locks for instance which feature regularly. True, there have been changes to the haldex system and software but wheel bearings are unchanged and really should not be a problem in cars these days.

What would be really interesting would be to find a breakdown of jobs paid for under LR warranty but I guess that would be commercially sensitive. Our current FL2s have cost about twice the extended warranty fee in repairs so far so and it's the first car that I have owned where I would not feel comfortable without a warranty.. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

littletriple wrote:

Yes, that's the one.
Although I haven't had a problem yet, these failures of the rear drive from the xfer gear backwards appear so common it feels like Russian roulette every time I use the car.

HI Stuartc thanks for your input. I also figured that some kind of wind up could be a factor in this. Good point about the software updates which supposedly softens the response of the Haldex. Is there a LR service bulletin detailing this as there is for the diff repair do you know?
I also speculated on the use of special programs on the road as there seems to be conflicting advise from LR depending where you look. From "DONT" to "try it out"
Do you know why the Gen v Haldex would be kinder to the trans? Isn't it more to do with how its controlled?
I guess what ticks me off over this is that even if the design has been improved & the newer cars don't fail, where does that leave the rest of us?

dorsetfreelander wrote:

littletriple wrote:

Yes, that's the one.
Although I haven't had a problem yet, these failures of the rear drive from the xfer gear backwards appear so common it feels like Russian roulette every time I use the car.

Just to be clear, if you remove FB6 will you have created a 2WD Freelander?

Yes you could always make up a connector with a blown fuse and just put an amp meter (or even a light bulb) across it and see when it draws current. - bit like Rolls Royce "power available" dial. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

A bulb might drop too much voltage & prevent the unit working correctly. I will probably try a simple mechanical ammeter which I can have in the front of the car. If the cables are too long & I get drop along them perhaps fit a shunt at the fuseway & monitor the voltage drop. All I need is time...

littletriple wrote:

The Haldex won't close without power.

Quote:

The driveshaft is attached to the coupling's front clutch plate assembly (input), with the rear clutch plate assembly connected to the differential pinion (output). A swash-plate with 6 hydraulic rollers is also attached to the differential pinion. When there is no speed difference between the coupling's input and output, the rollers do not function.

However, when the front and rear axles start to rotate at different speeds, the swash-plate rotates relative to the rollers which generates the hydraulic pressure. This pressure is used to force the opposing clutch plates together, increasing the transmission of torque to the rear axle. As the difference in axle speed increases the hydraulic pressure pushes the clutch plates further together to increase the torque to the rear axle.
A control valve/axial solenoid controls the amount of pressure applied to the clutch plates, and hence the amount of torque transmitted to the rear wheels. Close manufacturing tolerances and exceptionally low component wear ensure torque control remains accurate throughout the vehicle's life.

littletriple wrote:

Actually I would prefer the option anyway as I want to be in control rather than the car.

Fair points Pab, thanks. I am assuming that the mech pump would only operate in situations where there is a significant angular velocity differential. I can only see this happening off road, on snow or with different size wheels. I drive gently so don't spin up the tyres pulling away even on a loose surface.
Why would I want to disable the system? I agree this might seem perverse, but after all I've read about it's apparent fragility I no longer trust it & do not want the inconvenience or expense of a repair which may not last. My car is low mileage (33k) & in excellent condition with no faults so it's not an easy decision but my head tells me to sell it. I guess I'm just trying to prevent anything breaking while I make up my mind!
What do you think the mechanism that causes all these diff & transfer gear failures is?