My first post to this forum. Thank you all for the information.

I have the dreaded droning bearing noise coming from the rear end. I removed the rear diff, disassembled and found the pinon bearings and races to be in good condition. The authorized LR shop is tightening the nut and adjusting preload on a new bearing, but I don't think that is going to cure the noise. What else could it be? Can the Haldex make a wining noise?

Also, how can I separate the propeller shaft from the haldex? I have removed the 6 bolts that make the connection but the shaft and haldex wont separate at the joint. It appears that the male propeller shaft end fits into the female haldex receptacle. I watched a u-tube video of someone removing the propeller shaft. The u-tuber just tapped it with a hammer and it came right apart? I was pounding on mine with a wood block and hammer to no avail. I just succeeded in popping off the propeller end joint cover with the rubber boot and allow some kind of lubricant to leak out (looked too thin to be grease and too thick to be gear oil). I pulled the diff off and left the haldex strapped to the car. I'd like to pull it off completely to clean it. Any suggestions.

Thanks much in advanced.
2010 LR2 - USA spec
80,000 mi

The rear diff noise is mentioned a few times on this forum and it's not always due to the rear diff! Some of us have had wheel bearings and transfer boxes replaced to cure it. Hope the following gets you started.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic22795.html

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic21800.html 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Thanks for the links

You need a couple of more posts to use the PM' on here. Here's a link to a thread where the author 'JST' removed the propshaft, PM him I'm sure he will help you out.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic22858.html

Maybe not in your case but worn tyres (even at 3-4mm) have also fooled a lot into thinking they have bearing failure, certain tyres create a 'droning' noise when reaching minimum tread depth.

Let us know when you find out please. I heard there are a couple of holes in the haldex flange which you can put bolts in to push the flanges apart, not sure though.

You remove the propshaft by taking out all the bolts and plates and then inserting a 8mm x30 bolt from the back of the haldex flange in one of the two holes that are not propshaft bolt holes. Then, using two of the support plates (the ones you took off the front of the props haft flange) put two propshaft bolts through the back of the haldex flange in effect using the propshaft bolts and support plates as a pressing tool to push on the head of the 8mm bolt. Do it to each side of the haldex flange in turn and this will push the propshaft flange way from the haldex. In practice, I put the 8mm bolt in and gave it a light tap and it did the job.

Hope this makes sense and is of some help John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

Hi JST, do the 8mm bolts thread into the haldex flange?

No they just push through and come up against the prop flange and hence push the prop to haldex joint apart. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

OK thanks. I think I can imagine that.

The noise is gone!! I finished the job. Didn't remove the Haldex as I was pressed for time. Just left it hanging by straps. I could see the holes on the back side of the Haldex flange that could be used to aid in separation from the prop shaft.

As mentioned above, I did not see any damage to the pinion tail bearing or race. The LR service manager said they have had several of these making noise that did not exhibit any signs of damage. They simply replace the bearing and race, then apply tension to the nut as prescribed in the TOPIx manual then the noise disappears. Ditto for me.

An observation: I could not turn the pinion by hand before the repair. I think the nut had (over) tightened in the coarse of accumulating 80,000 miles. After torquing to spec I could turn it with some effort.

I would not recommend anyone attempting the pinion bearing repair without access to the special tools. It is very difficult to adequately torque the nut and measure bearing preload without the prescribed special tools. A good weekend warrior mechanic could remove the diff and drop it at an experienced local shop. However, having done the repair, I wouldn't want to do this again without a lift.

Thanks again for the replies.