tonytiger wrote:

pch I'd be interested in see if that cuts down some of the wind noise??

What about mpg with the bars on permanently?? And the light bar?? oh yeah I drive a LR I don't care

In the end I ran the cable upalong the side of the windscreen under the rubber edge ( +12v only, earthed on the roof bar mount)

wind noise was a bit annoying, but I have a sunroof, so its a bit more prone to noise.
As I dont use the roof at all, I blocked it out with sound insulator behine the inner slide cover.
nice and quiet now, and mental bright light 

When I have my oztent basket and roof box up there it all creates a helluva racket.

I have also considered insulating the sunroofs as believe it would be back to normal roof noise (not expecting it to disappear)

What have you used please? SD4 HSE Lux
Yeti 170 DSG L&K
Freelander 1 Td4 Overlander

Past: Freelander Metropolis, D3, D3, D2, Series 3, Series 3, Freelander 1 (still have this one bought new, the Monte Carlo blue kid)

hi

I used 2x http://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-liner-ccf

with the sunroof cover in place this is invisible.
I used 2 layers, the first one cut to be a tight, the 2nd layer was cut longer so it fits back into the sunroof recess.

works great, order 2 pieces, get free delivery, works out much better value
takes 5 minutes to do.
If you are ever near tunbridge wells, feel free to pop along and have a look. 

Tip of the Day!!

Perfect! No need to look at your thanks as I have been visualising forever but didnt know what was appropriate. Buying now, thanks for sharing  SD4 HSE Lux
Yeti 170 DSG L&K
Freelander 1 Td4 Overlander

Past: Freelander Metropolis, D3, D3, D2, Series 3, Series 3, Freelander 1 (still have this one bought new, the Monte Carlo blue kid)

happy to help.

oh, 2 pieces is enough for the sunroof, if you have panoramic / double roof you will need 4.. 

cool, thanks  SD4 HSE Lux
Yeti 170 DSG L&K
Freelander 1 Td4 Overlander

Past: Freelander Metropolis, D3, D3, D2, Series 3, Series 3, Freelander 1 (still have this one bought new, the Monte Carlo blue kid)

greenlandy, what made you choose the 140s over the 170s?

Whats the light output like and are they high enough using the light bar?

Is anyone aware of a light thats similar to the Lightforce but cheaper

GreenLandy wrote:

JOB DONE COUPLE OF PHOTOS

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

you mean compared with the two tonnes of metal right behind it?

probably wouldn't help, you're right, but I wonder whether the argument is purely academic?

so are these light bars designed to snap off before they impale themselves into the soft fleshy parts .. or after they pass through ?

But maybe it will become academic once 20mph zones become the norm.. we got them already down south in Brighton and other places.. the main idea to reduce infant deaths.. oh for the joy of motoring up North.

The x- bar is made of light aluminium and would deform in an impact as will the lightweight plastic lights attached. The whole package is only a couple of kilos . It does not have any sharp edges to impale anyone! It has been designed not to interfer with the airbag sensors in case of an accident. I have double checked with Devon 4X4 who confirm they have fitted them to several modern vehicles and do not infringe the legislation brought out with regards Bull Bars/ nudge bars.
I think the two tons of car will be far more impactive on a persons health at any speed.

In reply to the question why the Lightforce 140'S. I chose them because they are extremely light and strong. I thought the proportions were more in keeping with the Freelander and the x bar they are fitted to. I have found the output is sufficient to assist in giving better range,visibility and better illumination to road, road furniture / boundaries and the odd Deer!!! Hope this helps.

Having made a tit of myself thinking about HID kits and 100w fog light bulbs, I have come to the conclusiuon spot lights is probably the way to go.

I can get the light bar from Devon 4x4, so it a choice of spot lights. Not prepared to spend a fortune on spots to start with, maybe a fad, however the guy at Devon 4x4 suggested Bushranger 160mm Night Hawk. Now these come in wide beam/driving light and spot light.

I was thimking about one of each. Driving light for the near side and spot for the far side.

Any thoughts or I am simlpy barking mad

I dont know about the Nighthawk so cannot comment but can see no problem with your suggested rigging combining one spot with a flood as long as both only work on high beam . The lightforce lights have lens options that allow you to do this or have a lens which combines the two so flood and spot lens on each light. following u tube clips may help and show you how tough they are

Sorry Greenlandy if i use your thread for this matter, but I think it is more appreciated this way compared to a new one under the same topic.

Anyhow, I was planning on mounting three 9" (Ø22 cm) LED spotlights to my FL2. The most popular approach seems to be the use of mounting brackets at the back of the registration plate.

Is the support of the bumper too weak for these devices? Do any of you have any picture of your 9" driving lights? I am afraid that it won't be fitting well with the bulky bumper, and that I should go for 7" or a LED bar mounted elsewhere instead. I have tried to find (google, Freel2 etc.) any picture with a FL2 with this setup, especially taken from the side/profile, but without any luck.

Thanks!