Hi all, this is my first post so apologies if this subject may have already been posted.

6 week ago I bought a 11 plate freelander 2, I had it about 4 weeks and one day I started it, and it felt like it was running lumpy on tickover. It would run fine for a few seconds, surge like it was about to stall and the sort itself out for a few seconds, and it would repeat this, untill I slightly touched the accelerator and raised the revs slightly, the let it settle and it would tickover fine as normal and expected.
It still does it, but I ran some redEx through it thinking it may be an injector, it did seem like it made things a little better for a while, but now it's back to how it was.
It only happens when I've turned the engine off after its got to full temp, then started it again?

Also.. There seems to be a little hesitation in the throttle when this occurring, when I blip the accelerator a couple of times it sorts itself out and all is fine.

Sorry for vague description, but it's something that's starting to annoy me! Is my car tempramental? And would a ecu remap sort this?
I bought the car for a garage 50 mile away, and don't want to take it back if I can avoid it as it's not showing any fault on the dash and it may not show the problem when it's there. Plus I only have 3 month warranty with about 6 week remaining.

Thank you for your patience, and replies.
Ben.

Fuel filter?

Thank you, would that be a cause for a intermittent issue? "Apparently" the dealer I bought the car from services it before I picked the car up. Well... They've stamped the book anyway, (oil and filter change) again apparently.

Mine has FDH, but never been touched! I am not as technical as some on here so they may have a better idea, bring back carbs and dizzies!

Me niether, I'm hoping someone says a ecu remap will solve the problems. As I've heard the ecu learns your driving style! I don't drive with a heavy foot or long distances often. It runs perfect after a couple blips of the accelerator after start up when the issue rears its head.
I'd much rather put a updated map on it and it not learn or change the power at different times!
I'm also trying to avoid lots of trips to a garage, as each time I need to try something, a garage will be doing it!

Thank you for your replies.

Ben.

Throttle body playing up. Very similar symptoms to mine. If you are considering a replacement then only buy genuine from the dealer. Aftermarket ones in my experience are not calibrated or asd accurate as genuine.

Hi Fisha, would this throw a fault code so Ben could be certain it was the throttle body? Did you have any other symptoms?

Mine had symptoms which over time got worse to to the point it threw a fault code and put the engine management light on. General symptoms were very poor starting, and reduced engine performance warning along with the engine light coming on. Once the warning and engine light came on, it actually drove smoother (just vastly reduced power). Hindsight of this is that it was just ignoring the throttle body readings and guessing, and making a better job of it. I replaced mine, cleared the errors and it immediately solved the issues I was having.


it discussed elsewhere, but where you might get a standard 5-digit OBD2 code from a basic code reader, LR use additional digits to better define the actual error the car is seeing. ( LR used 9 digits in total IIRC. digits 6 and 7 were used to define the more specific details of the error, and digits 8 and 9 were used to define whether the error is a permanent, temporary, toys out the pram error )

In the case of my throttle body, the 5 digit code OBD2 suggested an EGR circuit B error ... which makes you think it was EGR related ... but the longer LandRover code actually meant the throttle body ( which is kind of linked to EGR, but its a funny way of doing it if you ask me )

. . . . just away to find it . . . P0486 was the OBD2 error 16/17 were the additional digits. You can see how the title of the error calls it EGR, but the suggested solution refers to the throttle body being fixed / replaced. For this reason, if you are getting errors, then you need to get the 7-digit code, not just a 5-digit one.

P0486 -16
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Sensor B Circuit - Circuit
voltage below threshold
NOTE: Circuit reference
I_A_TVA
Description:
The engine control module measured a voltage below a specified range but not necessarily a short circuit to ground
Electric throttle position sensor circuit short circuit to ground, open circuit
Electric throttle unit failure
Solutions:
Refer to the electrical circuit diagrams and check electric throttle position sensor circuit for short circuit to ground, open circuit. Repair harness as required. Clear DTC and retest Check and install a new electric throttle unit as required

P0486- 17
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
Sensor B Circuit - Circuit
voltage above threshold (basically same issue as above)

That's brilliant, thank you so much for that! When the car was first started when I viewed the card, (before I bought it) it had been stood a while and struggled to start, and there was a error on the dash saying engine performance reduced! When I drive it around and cleared it out a little it seemed to go off and all was ok and its never shown itself since! I did ask if they would just check all was ok, and I was told it was just because it had been stood and the battery was low. However, he did say when the light came on and he was pondering what it could be, he said that it may be the EGR, so now I'm thinking, that it's had the fault all along and they've read the fault code and its shown EGR to them! Then they've cleared the fault and sent me on my way thinking they'll not see me again!! Hmm it all fits into place! I'll give them a call and see what they're going to do!!

Again! Thank you for your replies! Much appreciated.

Sounds like Fisha might have sorted this for you, good luck and keep us informed how you get on

Absolutely, just called them and told a small porkie pie, said that I've got throttle body issues and its from the fault that came on the dash when I first viewed the car. I'm just waiting for a call back before dinner tomorrow. They've been a little evasive in the past, so I think I may have a battle on my hands!

Thanks again, real glad I joined now 😀

If it fixes it, then great. If not, then you really need to see if there are any codes registered. I have alist of all the error codes and their descriptions for the engine if it's not the one listed above.

I took my old throttle body apart. I presumed it was sticking and not moving properly, that want the case. The only thing I can think of is that the potentiometer track was getting worm out and it was giving odd readings as the throttle butterfly moved.

Okay, that's good to know, I did tell them on the phone that I have a friend that's a Land Rover specialist and he can do the job and send them the bill, saves me travelling to Derby from Doncaster. I'll try my best with them on the phone tomorrow and see how I get on. But with the info I got from you ive got some ammo. Fingers crossed.

Hi, bit of a update. I spoke with the dealer today and they said I could do 1 of 2 things. Take the car to them and loan a car for £10 a day while they test the car. And if there is a problem they find and if it's covered by their warranty they'll pay for the work.
Or, I could take it to a garage near me, get the car diagnosed at my expense, and then, when the fault is diagnosed, send the quote to the dealer I got the car, and hope they'll pay for the work so I don't have to go to Derby.

I've called a garage near me and they are going to have a look at it tomorrow. After my description of the symptoms, they also say it sounds like a fault with the throttle body as its meant to be a common fault with the facelift fl2 2011 onwards.

I'll know more tomorrow. 😝

fisha wrote:

If it fixes it, then great. If not, then you really need to see if there are any codes registered. I have alist of all the error codes and their descriptions for the engine if it's not the one listed above.

I took my old throttle body apart. I presumed it was sticking and not moving properly, that want the case. The only thing I can think of is that the potentiometer track was getting worm out and it was giving odd readings as the throttle butterfly moved.