Well after doing a fair bit of research I feel I have finally gathered enough information to give the old girl a bit of a treat. I have had the car for a few months and although she has full LR service history some of the fluids have not been changed. She has now done 74k so I think it is time for a treat!

I have taken advice from the following posts on oil and fluid changes:

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic8852.html

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic20636.html?highlight=rear+diff

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic7840.html

https://www.freel2.com/forum/post244299.html#244299

I am also open to any other advice you may be able to share from others who have done similar. The plan is to do oil and filter change using the cheaper oil, run for 200 miles then engine flush then another oil and filter change using the Shell oil this time, courtesy of Klian787 & Steve D for that advice. Front and rear diff and transfer box oil change, haldex oil and filter change (I am presuming I can get the filter changed without taking it off the car) using the extractor. I may be doing a bit of home made plumbing to try and get as much of the old stuff out as possible. I thought I would take a photo of the goodies I have lined up for her, she is in for a real treat! Any advice gladly received.

looking good, she is indeed a lucky girl !!

at least you'll know that everything has been done, and done correctly.

let us know your progress and findings, with pictures

Iain

In my experience it's a good idea to change the fuel filter too at every service rather than every other one. I have had two FL2's that needed it doing before the due mileage. My local indie always does an engine flush (which dealers don't) and then also puts a can of Forte injector cleaner in the tank.

Thanks Iain, will take some photos and will try and keep the camera clean!
Dorset, thanks for the advice. I haven't looked at this yet, although I will look into it. I seem to remember that there are some bleeding issues that need to be aware of?

RichP wrote:

... haldex oil and filter change (I am presuming I can get the filter changed without taking it off the car)

Thanks Pab, I looked at that as well and am not prepared to take it off the car as that is a step too far for me. I intend to take a look and see if I can get the filter off but if I can't I will leave it on and change the fluid only as Alex suggested. Will update once I have taken a look.

When you change the Haldex oil be careful to follow the instructions exactly - drain, fill, ignition on for the required time, fill, then extract the required amount.

Others have experienced Haldex failure following a diff repair, and there's a suspicion that it might have been due to the Haldex not having been re-filled correctly when re-fitted. Seems that getting the fill process right might be critical.

Yes I was aware of that so will be double checking everything I do. Cheers.

dorsetfreelander wrote:

In my experience it's a good idea to change the fuel filter too at every service rather than every other one. I have had two FL2's that needed it doing before the due mileage. My local indie always does an engine flush (which dealers don't) and then also puts a can of Forte injector cleaner in the tank.

Who's your local indie in Dorset? * GONE. GS TD4 Manual MY2013. Orkney Grey with privacy, cold and clearview packs, armrests (a must!) and a spoiler.
* 2011 4.4 TDV8 Full Fat. Amazing piece of kit.
* GONE.2012 RR Sport HSE SDV6 Orkney Grey. Rocket ship. 33mpg.
* Range Rover Classic '93 200Tdi Factory fit
* 1949 80" in family since 1975

DF I think that was aimed at you.

Hi Guys, I am trying to get the engine shield off and the bolts are very tight, cannot move any of them. Can I use heat (naked flame) on them?

They shouldn't be that tight! Use a 2ft bar on your socket and preferably a high torque (6 sided) socket. If you can't shift them with that then you are in trouble! I wouldn't apply heat except in exceptional circumstances and have a fire extinguisher standing by if you do. Torque for refitting - 60Nm.

Thanks Greybeard. Yes it looks like I am in trouble! Will not heat, will try a smack with the persuader.

Ok, good news is you can change the haldex filter with it still attached to the car, bad news is the filter that was sent to me from Duckworths is the wrong size, being too long. LR 032298 was the one sent, this may be for 4th gen haldex? As mine is 2007 it will be 3rd gen, so I think they changed the filter size. Anyone got any experience? I am very reluctant to put the old one back in as it is black and the oil was not that clean either that I extracted. Help appreciated!

Update No. 1. Engine shield has now left the car what a had to grind two bolts off as they were all exceedingly tight. Good news is that they are not tapped, just some of those fold over clips that self tap, can I get any of those?
Can now see oil around sump seal where it joins the engine, question: do I just nip up the bolts or do I need to take off and put new seal on?
Drained haldex, fluid was darker than others have suggested for a car that has done 74k, so it is a good thing that I am doing the fluid and filter change. As previously posted, you CAN change the filter while the haldex is still fitted, at least mine anyway, that is if I had the right filter
Rear diff fluid changed, again quite dark with small amount of sludge, so good job I am changing the fluid. I may run the car for a few hundred miles and change again, that way I am more likely to get most of the bad stuff out. It is a very change, just the hassle and few quid so may be worth doing.
The oil filter looks as bad as suggested but I can get my hand on it at least, can't do the oil change until the haldex is full as I can't turn the car on to heat the oil so need the right Haldex filter quick!
From what I have seen so far, I would recommend changing the fluids. Will post pictures once I get sorted.