If you go to their website they have a service menu with C service for Freelander 2 listed at £294.

http://www.lrparts.net/fittings-and-repairs


Joe Fix it until it's broke !

Don't forget the water pump.
If you get there, change it, because I doubt it will hold two belt intervals.
And if it will start to drip and the cooling liquid gets on the belt, then the belt needed to be changed again.

Hi Alex,
The kit LR032527 includes water pump.
As you say it would be unwise not to change.

Joe Fix it until it's broke !

Hi,
Just got belt & pump changed, at 216000km, which makes 135000 miles. Original parts were just fine, no doubt they they could last 150k interval. I was hurrying for no reason
And here in Finland conditions can be pretty harsh... from -30C to +30C.

Just did a timing belt change on a FL2 2007 TD4. at 129k. Kilometers. (Many short trips)
And a water pump and pulleys and oil change plus all filters.

Was a 6 hr job.
As starter motor is out you can change oil filter easily.

Belt was in as new condition. Same for water pump and pulley bearings. Cleaned all greace from bearings and still no signs of wear.had new SKF set so put that in.

As I have the LR workshop manual, the Haynes and a instruction that came with the belt tools.
Still some tips.
- remove the plastic cover under the starter motor. None mentioned that.
- have a torqs socket for the guide pulley bolt.
- allthough stated in one manual. No need to remove engine support.
- have a help to install timing tool
- I did not drain the coolant and just pulled the pump off. Needed 5 litter to top back up.
-WARNiNG: I bought tool from LaserTools. I needed to modify it as the plate with single tooth to grab the flywheel was resting on the rim of the flywheel..... Flywheel is not flush with starter motor flange (is that what you call it in English?)
See pics below. Put two thick washers in between as well.
- found accessory belt been in very bad condition. Multiple cracks. Should be 3 years old..... Which I doubt. Will have chat with local LR stealer as they changed it 3 years ago.
- timing tools are needed as the torque you have to apply on pulley bolt is very high. I think 60nm plus 82 degrees additional turn. Must be something like ending up with 240nm.
- need new pulley bolt. Which came in my SKF set. But check that as I do not know if it is standard in there.

So far my experience... Was fun to do.

I changed my cambelt and water pump last October at 870000 miles and found the belt to be rarther shiny and glazed and a bit worn on the edges. I do a lot of stop start work running errands for work.
Dealers recommended change interval 150k or 10 years is very risky.
The haldex oil change interval which is the same is also a issue as at 70k my oil was very low which caused rear grinding when turning corners due to the haldex clutch not disengaging.

Last edited by turboextreme on 1st Jul 2015 12:31 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I am not surprised being 720000 miles past the change interval!

On a slightly different tack my wife has a peugeot 207 16v petrol. It's 56 reg and only 42k miles but I have been planning to do the timing belt. I found that you can unclip the top timing belt cover in a few seconds and see the belt which looks in perfect condition so is it worth doing I ask myself ? Any views?

ps I ask this question here since the Peugeot forums seem to be mainly concerned with go faster stripes and the like. Either they are more reliable that FL2s or their owners don't DIY. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE