I have been trying to replace the front discs and pads today, but the front right has been giving me a terrible time.

I got the retaining screw out and the caliper off without problem, but have had the devil of a job getting the disc off the hub. It took me 1.5 hours of bashing and levering and now I'm too exhausted to do the other side.

It seemed as if it was binding on the studs and/or the centre of the hub.

However, the new disc slipped on easily.

Is this normal?

They sometimes stick because of corrosion/rust. I did a Renault yesterday - same problem - solved with big mallet! I hope you gave the hub a good clean up before fitting the new disc. I usually stick a bit of copper geese on the hub to prevent future problems. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

1.5 hours. Wow! On the other side, try a squirt of penetrating oil on the studs and flange and give it a few minutes to work it's way in. With the caliper and carrier out of the way (and especially if you are replacing the discs anyway) a good smack with a decent size hammer on the disc from behind, right where the inner pad fits, should do the trick. A good smack with a hammer (not copper as it absorbes the shock) , rotate disc 180 degrees, smack, repeat, smack, repeat etc.

As previously mentioned, clean any rust from the flange before fitting the new disc as anything stuck between the new disc and old flange will cause the disc to run out of true and will result in a brake judder.

5 minute job.

You just need the right size Persuader

It wasn't rusted to the hub, in fact it was reasonably clean behind, it just seemed to be sticking on the studs - as if the holes in the disc were out of alignment. I had to bash it off millimetre by millimetre. Maybe the previous owner had fitted a set of cheapo chinese ones.

Anyway, the job's done now, and I've cleaned and greased everything. I just hope that the other side is easier.

Mine were the same, the inside of the disc corodes and kind of crimps the disc to the hub, easier to cut them off with an angle grinder or recip. saw. 2008 XS TD4, Sumatra Black, Manual.

Hammering disc ON with rapid hard impacts alternating around hub before hitting from behind is usually effective. All FL2's (3) Gone
2011 Mercedes C180 CGI Gone
FL2 GS Auto SD with heated leather, factory tints, alloy spare and a few other bits.

Sorry to report that the other front disc proved equally difficult to remove. An hour of bashing got it off in the end.

I have to say it was worth the effort. The old discs were severely corroded on the inside face and should have been replaced long ago. The outer faces looked near perfect.

The brakes feel really sharp now (though I won't be using them too fiercely for a while).

For anyone interested in doing the work themselves, I bought Delphi discs and pads from eBay for £85 delivered. You can get cheaper non-branded sets, but I thought it safest to go with a name I recognised.

I had a job doing mine a couple of years ago on my 57 plate.
One side came off easy as normal but the other side turned into a complete nightmare!.

The reason!--

The inside of the disc hubs had swelled where the cast iron swells out as it de-laminates.
The discs came off the hub ok but wouldnt pull over the hubs due to this swelling inside!
Never seen this before. Tried some hammering but got nowhere fast and didnt like the idea of hammering and causing potential problems elsewhere.

I read somewhere on a forum that some guy had sawed them in two with a hacksaw to get them off.
So thats what I did. It looked daunting, but the cast iron with a decent hacksaw cut fairly easy.
Took my time and several coffee breaks etc and soon the disc was off in two pieces.

I think I had to mount the blade in the saw at the 90 degree position if I remember and I had to be careful in places not to mark the hub or other components, but as desperate and brutal as it sounded, it really worked!