If you ever try to push the valve closed you will realise how strong the spring is, it will always fail in the open position if the gear strips, its default position. As it will always be open there is no need for a get you home fix. Its probably the strength of this spring that causes the flimsy plastic gear to fail in the first place.

Hello David,
Sorry to butt in on this conversation, but I remember you from the FL1 Site, presume like me you have moved over to the FL2?
Nice to see an "old" poster  Hit it he said, Hit it!--So I hit it, then he hit me---Doh!

Hi Maffy
bought an 07 nearly two years ago, couple of niggles with rear brakes and wheel bearings and of course the throttle body. Think I had one of the best FL1's but no regrets FL2 is fantastic.

Cheers David.

Hi David,
Still have the FL1 (My wife's) it is now 10 yrs old and still fine, the odd niggle but hey it is a 10 yr old freelander.
I moved over late last month into a metropolis as my works car (lucky me)
must say FL1-FL2 Chalk and cheese.
Thanks. Hit it he said, Hit it!--So I hit it, then he hit me---Doh!

With reference to always failing open when the gears strip I parked my FL on the drive and when I went back it wouldn't start. It turned out that the throttle body was shut fast due to the gears stripping and you couldn't move it at all.

Replaced and now alls well.

Steve MY2010 XS Fuji White dog carrier

I had the same - took it out and the whole lot to pieces to check and the gears stripped and jammed completely. Only in taking the gears off did the spring do anything so not always strong enough. Wish these were something a bit more durable than the rubbish nylon they've used if it's happening to us all. Had about 40k on the clock...

Qq... I have a very small leak from what o think ks my throttle body ( pictures on my gallery area)... Ive not really had any problem other than im convinced the car isnt just right.

Could this be the throttle body or turbo leak ( still finding my way around the engine bay).

Thanks

T

Click image to enlarge

Looks like a slight oil weep from the turbo hose but personally I'd start with cleaning it all off first and then monitoring it as its too oily to tell from the picture. Shouldn't affect running though.

Mine had the same and it was due to a split in the rubber hose feeding the throttle body. Oil blow by from the engine breather pipe ended up blowing out the split in the hose.

Had clouds of black smoke pouring out the back under acceleration.





Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

Could we just unplug the throttle body, then start up / shut down to see if its broken? If its worse when unplugged then surely its ok? Or would this be a no no? Freelander 57 plate XS Blue Auto

Steve D wrote:

Looks like a slight oil weep from the turbo hose but personally I'd start with cleaning it all off first and then monitoring it as its too oily to tell from the picture. Shouldn't affect running though.

I plan too - just been too dam cold

Kabous1 wrote:

Mine had the same and it was due to a split in the rubber hose feeding the throttle body. Oil blow by from the engine breather pipe ended up blowing out the split in the hose.

Had clouds of black smoke pouring out the back under acceleration.

Had some black clouds on start up - OK after its warm so I think this may be my problem.

Its not serious yet so I'll have a good look when its warm.

Thanks guys

T Terran



'The' Car For The Modern Day UK Roads ( ie all the pot holes )

'A Freelander that leaks oil is just marking its territory' - Wise words

Now a member of the FL2 'Silly Bill' Club

alex_pescaru wrote:

Please, don't take it personally...
Besides the confusion between gasoline and diesel engines, also it can't be considered a real "get you home" measure because, as shown in many cases, if the toothed wheels inside get "shaved", the motor can't move the flap and, if the flap remains closed, in no way disconnecting the wires can solve the problem... Only dismantling the thing can solve it...

After only just sorting my dodgy connection to the crank shaft sensor I now have issues with the intake potentially. Today I am getting juddering and P02E1
Perhaps more dodgy loom (I may regret having patched it) or perhaps a genuine new issue. Its always made some extended wining after shutdown.

My question to you.. the throttle position in OBDII is that where it thinks it asked it to be or is it read via a potentiometer. From that reading can I tell if it is stuck??

Thank you!
James


UPDATE (1st July 2022)
-------------------------

My throttle intake valve finally died in a closed position last week so i was forced to revisit this issue (which had gone away). Just to say that you can tell if the flapper value's working properly by graphing the data coming from ODB2 for the commanded throttle position vs the actual position. You can see when these don't move in symphony together. Pressing and holding the start button without your foot on the brake to wake up the dash (2nd key turn) and then pressing it again to turn off should make it move. It does now I have replaced it!

The issue in mine was that oil had got in and killed the motor. Other people find their cogs are stripped, in which case there are repair kits.. though the new unit only cost £80 and so I figured I'd just fix it once, properly