2007 FL2 - 116,000 miles

there has been an intermittent wobble at speed 40 - 60 for ages, i thought it was the front drive shaft (based on feedback from you guys, thanks gain for your help) well one of them i just haven't got round to replacing yet as its not been that bad.

however last night it got a lot worse, and for whatever reason i gently applied the parking brake whilst driving to see if it made a difference. ........ OMG, the noise was pretty bad and in time with the wobble, as if a tire had a huge bubble in the surface. But then it disappeared for a bit whilst on the flat until going down or uphill again, with or with out the handbrake gently applied, obviously the noise was worse with the hand brake applied.

I'm now thinking the rear shaft or shafts may have gone. I checked the wheel bearings recently and they were fine, and I'd expect noise from them anyway to indicate them going.

I have ordered 2 new full rear shafts complete with UJ's at each end, as they were a bargain on ebay, but anything else to check guys?

Andy

Don't panic!!

This could be something really simple - like your handbrake shoes
I had the exact same problem.
The adjuster/pivot sometimes gets stuck.

Try to drive the car on the level using the footbrake as little as possible. Wait for the vibration to begin and coast the car to a stop; again using as little footbrake pressure as possible. Goes without saying be aware of other road users!
Now check how hot the rear disc/handbrake drum is. Be careful, you can burn your fingers. If one side is much hotter than the other, it's either sticking pads or more likely handbrake shoes. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Might I suggest two other checks.
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Try moving the suspect rear wheel and exchanging it for the front on the same side to see if you move the vibration.
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Next inspect the rear brak pads, lever the pads in their cradle a little such that there is a little clearance from the disc. The pads should be a 'rattle fit' in their cradle at the end 'ears'. Quite often the cradle slides corrode and grab the pad. I seem to remember that the OE sliders are a stainless pressed insert, check in case their is rust build up on the cradle which might have squeezed the stainless in. It's also worth checking those pad 'ears' as some replacement non OE pads have poor cropping and are a few thou too long.
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Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Thanks all. Ok I'm under the car now. Jacked up, wheels still on.
I'm moving both rear drive shafts side to side, how much play is ok?
There's about 1mm on both.

Try the brakes first as suggested  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

That sound fine, I would expect one end to be retained an the other end sliding.
I would think it more important on the up and down play, this would indicate a worn joint if slop is present.
Can you rotate a shaft to look to see if its been bent when offroading?
Can you wobble the wheels at all?
Might be worth checking the radius arms bushes.
.
Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Hi guys.

Ok so the rear brakes are all 2000 miles old.
Shoes, discs and pads. And all seem perfectly good.

In fact there's quite a bit of what looks like grease on the back of the pads and moving parts

The play is up and down diff end of the shafts. And there is some movement in the rubber bushing at the bottom of the hub assy too. Presumably this is a design feayure

Have you driven it yet to see if one side is hotter than the other? Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Hi yes both sides are the same temp, however I've now found, with the shaft turned to acertain angle of rotation on the right side quite a bit of movement hub end. So that's both shafts, LH at diff end, RH at diff and hub.

The brakes I just can't fault, yet.

But I wouldn't have thought the amount of play I can feel in the shafts would cause such a vibration. Maybe under load it's more pronounced. Just don't know. I bet I'll have changed the whole back end before the week is out lol

have you checked for broken spring or leg leaking?had a prob like this changed quite a few parts drop links etc turned out to be strut on rear pass side

I've given both a good wobble with the car jacked up. How would I check it?

mine had oil leaking under rubber boot all down leg

Interestingly I did notice wetness all round the bottom of the shock.
Hmm, now I think I've bought 2 driveshafts without need. Although they were cheap so I'll change them anyway esp as there is defo play there.

I'll report back Friday as I have the day off to sort it all out

I thought mine was a wheel bearing or the diff .even had garage look at it ,they could not find anything.sounded if something was catching /rumble. noise was intermittent.bought 2 new legs from eurocarparts £70 each.thou only rear passenger side had failed.took longer to get trim off inside car than to change both legs.only found it was coming from rear(it sounded like it was from front)when my mate layed down on back seat to listen while I drove round.then a pal who worked for lr years ago said it sounds like suspension ,on investigation he noticed oil had been leaking down the leg.been 2 months now and all okay no probs.