I posted some of this a while ago, but at that time the problem was mixed up with other issues.
Some issues have been eliminated now, so I thought it best to make a new post.
STARTS-THEN-DIES.

It's an early 3.2 i6 petrol auto, any suggestions gratefully received.

Most times, the car will start and run normally.
But occasionally, it won't.

Get in, put key fob into dock, it is sometimes spit out.
Put key fob into dock a second time - it always stays in.

Press brake, gearlever in P, press start.
Sometimes: the car will start, run for only a second, and then die.
If this happens, attempts to start it again (by just pressing start) never work - it will always start-then-die.
(NB: this can happen after the key fob is spit out, but it can also happen if the key fob stayed in normally).

When this began, I had a tailgate switch problem.
Always, after opening/shutting the tailgate, the car would start and run normally.
I figured the tailgate-switch problem must be causing the start-then-die problem.
I fixed the tailgate switch ...

Occasional start-then-die continued.
But if I opened/shut the tailgate, the car would start and run normally!
After a while, just opening/shutting the tailgate didn't fix it.
I had to open/shut other doors, lock/unlock, sometimes many times, before it would start and run.

So I did a hard reset.
Then, it started and ran.
But eventually, start-the-die happened again.

Over two weeks, I did three hard resets.
Each time, the car would start and run after I did the hard reset.
But always start-then-die came back again.

I sent the car to a good independent.
They ran it through Autologic, but didn't find anything that was a definite fault.
Battery was in poor condition (the original), so a new battery (exactly same type as original) was fitted.
The logic: low voltage was confusing the ECU's (seems sensible to me).
They ran the car daily for 2 weeks after fitting the new battery.
No problems.

I collected it yesterday, brought it home, parked it on the driveway.
An hour later, needed to move it: start-then-die again.
After opening/closing, locking/unlocking a lot of times, it started and ran normally.
This is driving me mad.
Any ideas ... The quick brown fox

Absolutely no idea but I'm certain your independent went through the obvious things.
Maybe by chasing the solution you are perhaps blaming things that has nothing to do with your problem.
Just by chance, is it only at home that this occurs, maybe near somewhere with strong radio waves affecting the ECU, if not then check out the gearbox 'park' switch/connector and the same for the brake pedal for an intermittent fault maybe. Or the start module/connector could be at fault, this is behind where your fob is inserted.

Thanks.
It can occur at home or away from home.
I don't think there are radio waves near where the car is parked on my driveway.
Next time start-then-die happens I'll move it in/out of park a few times.
Start module diagnosis will have to be on the list for next visit to somewhere with Autologic.
I was out in it today, re-started four times no problem.
But the start-then-die thing can happen any time.
So far I haven't noticed any sypmtoms that precede it. The quick brown fox

Still doing the start-then-die trick, now more often.
Normal starting on about 60-70% of occasions, otherwise it does the start-then-die routine.
I tried shifting it through gears (while stationary) and then attempting start again, unchanged.
Today, removed the fuel filler and noticed a whoosh of air going in (or maybe out).
For now, driving it and hoping a permanent fault will develop - maybe then it can be diagnosed.
Couple of questions:
1:
When the filler flap is open, a little white plastic prong thingy is visible just adjacent to the hinge.
This is usually 'down' so the fuel filler flap hinge can push over it and the flap can be closed.
A few days ago it was 'up' and I couldn't close the flap until I pushed the little white prong thingy down.
What is this?
And is it normally supposed to be up or down, when the filler flap is open?
2.
(It's an auto) ... foot on clutch, key fob in dock, ready to press start.
At this point, should there be anything showing (messages, lights) on the instrument pack?
Or nothing, until the moment start is pressed? The quick brown fox

Foot on clutch? You say it's an auto so surely you mean the brake?

In my manual nothing happens until the start button is pressed. If you want to do something like open windows, dock your key fob, and press and hold start without depressing the clutch/brake. If it's cold enough this can also trigger the glow plugs.

Sorry (can't get used to auto!) I did mean brake.
Nothing lights up until start is pressed?
Thanks for confirming that, it's what I thought (and what my car does).
I'm just trying to establish what's normal and what isn't, since I don't have access to any other FL2. The quick brown fox

Olegit wrote:

When the filler flap is open, a little white plastic prong thingy is visible just adjacent to the hinge.
This is usually 'down' so the fuel filler flap hinge can push over it and the flap can be closed.
A few days ago it was 'up' and I couldn't close the flap until I pushed the little white prong thingy down.
What is this?

Fuel flap lock, it should be down when the vehicle is unlocked, when locked it should come up so you cannot open the flap, had you opened the flap the locked the car  p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

I see ...
I must have locked the car when the flap was open, I guess.
Thanks for this. The quick brown fox

did you ever get to the bottom of this fault??

I have a similar issue with my 2007 i6 HSE and was doing a search on the forum

The start. Then die issue sounds like a fuel pump issue in the tank. In tank pumps can be temperamental and may be the opening and shutting of the tail gate is shaking the intank pump which will then allow it too run !
A quick fuel pressure check of the fuel rail when it dies would be good to check and easy on a petrol model. Jaguar x-type sport gone
Jaguar x-type 2.2d sport one of my best cars ever sadly gone
Freelander 2 GS auto 2008 most unreliable ever ! gladly gone
Freelander 2 GS manual 2013 only time will tell !

That's interesting, I hadn't come across any other instance.
Is it solved?
Hopefully, fingers crossed ... one can never be certain until some time has passed.

I struggled on with this problem for most of last summer and autumn.
Generally the car would start.
Occasionally (and unpredictably) it would start-then-die.
Usually, it would then start eventually after some tries.
If all else failed, a hard reset would do the trick (but, who wants to be carrying on like that ...).

Then, on here, I read that some cars had problems with poor earthing - you'll find it if you search.
There's a test you can run, to see if there is earth leakage.
The fix is to fit a separate and additional earth lead.
(Apparently a sxecondary earth lead is now standard on current-production Freelander 2's).
My start-then-die problem wasn't mentioned, but I thought, an earth leakage can't be good ...

Not having more time to mess about, I took my car to Bishops 4x4 at Yaxley (near Peterborough).
They did some resets via Autologic (basically, updates) though personally I think that was a side issue.
They ran the test for earthing - yes, there was earth leakage.
Fitted the extra earth strap, since when it's been OK.

I say that with qualification, since the car's been out of use lately.
(Not having had time to do waxing and winter prep., I decided to keep it off the road this winter).
But since fitting the earth strap it's had many dozens of starts.
So I'd suggest you check the forum for the earth leakage issue and fitting of a second earth strap as fix.
I'd be interested to hear how you get along. The quick brown fox

Thanks Oldgeezer, that's a new angle.
However, I concluded in the end that the tailgate probably wasn't a factor.
I kept a log of what may have been having a positive effect, to enable eventual start-up.
Every time it'd start-then-die, I wrote down what I did before it finally agreed to start and run.
There was no pattern of opening/shutting doors or tailgate, waiting time before re-try, or anything I could find.
Latterly, I just sat in the driving seat and kept re-trying until it would start and run, nothing else.
So my guess is, it wasn't the tailgate.
If the problem comes back though, it'll be something to check. The quick brown fox

Exactly what is a hard reset? Disconnecting the battery?

Hard reset is disconnecting the battery, holding both disconnected ends together for 30 seconds or so and then leaving it for 20 minutes or so before reconnecting. You'll find certain things will have reset, eg trip computer, clock and the electric windows (the manual shows you how to sort them).

A hard reset cures a few issues where something has got confused. On mine it has solved a low voltage induced lock/unlock issue.

Hope that helps.

Andrew 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
MY2013 SD4 XS Firenze Red, 19" 10 spoke contrast paint wheels, Signature Strips, Grand Black Lacquer trim, Cold Climate Pack - gone!
2007 TD4 S Stornoway Grey - gone!