Hello everybody! I'm a new FL2 owner (2010 TD4.e GS) and I would like to pick people's brains, if I may. I have had a look on here regarding my particular issue but can't seem to find anything relating to it, so here goes:

My FL2 has a strange jerking/ jolting problem. When I want to change into 2nd gear and depress the clutch I often get a jerk or jolt - not always. When in 2nd gear and releasing the clutch I get a distinctive 'clanky' noise coming from the back. Like metal banging against metal. Even if I try to do everything as smoothly as possible I still get this jolting/ clanking, only not quite as bad.

Like I said, it's not always the case, but often enough to give me cause for concern. Also, it makes no difference whether the engine is warm or cold. Perhaps someone can shed some light on what's going on.

Many thanks in advance for your input, guys! 2010 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4.e GS
2011 Volkswagen Golf GT - Gone
2006 BMW 118d SE - Gone

Do you have a removable towbar fitted? think there's a "problem" with a cure on here for clunking from there, might be your clanky noise from the back?

Hi! No, there's no towbar fitted to the car. 2010 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4.e GS
2011 Volkswagen Golf GT - Gone
2006 BMW 118d SE - Gone

What mileage has it done? might give some others an idea if it's wear + tear related?

Being a manual I would check the proper function of the clutch's switches...
More the top travel one (C2E904), but the bottom travel one also (C2E903).
When pressing the clutch, that contact informs the engine ECU to switch to a different advance/quantity regime and make the gear changes more smoothy.
It's easy to check, see the below picture for reference.
Remove the connector and verify the switch with an ohmmeter while pressing and depressing the clutch.

It's done 30,500 miles. Thanks, Alex! I will check that out! I was beginning to think it could be this dreaded differential issue ... not that I know what that is, being technically/ mechanically challenged, but I've heard so much about this ... 2010 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4.e GS
2011 Volkswagen Golf GT - Gone
2006 BMW 118d SE - Gone

I have the same problem so checked the switches today.You have to remove the knee airbag and the big plastic sourrounding it.It has two t27 torx screws near the steering column(kind of hard to get to) and two t27 torx screws near the pedals.First remove the headlight switch and the trim then the trim where you put the key,remove the four torx screws.Pull firmly on the airbag sourrounding the airbag it is hold by retaing clips.the platic and the airbag will then hang on the airbag wires.the best way to check the switches is by removing them from the clutch pedal.Pull aside the sound dedning foam.The first switch you remove by taking the wire plug out and then twist ithe switch clockwise or anticlock,can't remeber.The second switch is a pain in the to get out.After removing the plug try to pry it out.It i hidden close to the firewall and you don't ahve room for you hand to get it out easy .Putting it back it's even harder.
The upper switch has the 6G9T-11A152-AA part number. And the lower one has the 4M5T-7C534-AA part numer.
Mine were fine so the problem must be somewere else.

Cheers,
Alex

I wanted to add this.I don't know how many ohm the switches should have so.I don't really know if they were ok.

It's a switch so the resistance must tends to 0 when's closed and towards infinite when's open.
So, reading between your lines, they're OK...

Thanks, guys! I'm taking it back to the dealer next week to have it checked out - differential and the clutch - I'll have to wait and see what he comes back with ... 2010 Land Rover Freelander 2 TD4.e GS
2011 Volkswagen Golf GT - Gone
2006 BMW 118d SE - Gone

A few notes on my experience with replacing the switches on my brother in laws 2007 model.
Firstly thanks for info above, it helped immensely. A torch – preferably a headlight will make things a lot easier.
The car had a C1A41-21 Clutch pedal sensor circuit error when it was scanned on an autologic scanner. I scanned it a few weeks ago (on a cheap ELM 327 scanner) and it had given some other code which I have forgotten but it was for the cruise control. I bought both switches as they were cheap.
I followed daemonlr2 instructions. To add to them, the connector for the airbag was quite difficult to remove. If you look at the connector, you will see wires entering it perpendicular to the cylinder that the connector attaches to. About 2/3 of the way down the connector body away from the wires, there are small black pieces to press on either side of the connector. I used needle nose pliers to squeeze them and then pulled the connector out in the direction of the long cylinder axis. I hope this becomes clear when you see the parts.
The lower switch is rotated clockwise to release.
Have a good look at the upper switch before undoing it. The switch has two overhanging clips and spring clip. Removing it was very easy – just push the spring clip. Getting the new one on was a bit more tricky but if you know how it attaches, you will get it on eventually.