As some know, I have been having some turbo issues. Short version, I decided to get my spare turbo refurbished at Midland Turbos and replace the problem one. To do this I would have to remove the EGR valve for access. EGR works but thought I would clean it when it was out.
Some of this will be obvious to most but this is my how to.

From the top of the engine bay disconnect and remove the battery.
Remove air intake pipework and complete air filter box from turbo inlet pipe connection.
Remove engine cover and disconnect exhaust temp, sensor.
Remove battery tray. (this gives better access to bulkhead bolts).
From under the car remove the engine undertray and crossmember that is behind the front subframe, four 10mm bolts. this gives better access.
Disconnect and remove front section of exhaust c/w Cat from turbo flange, long 10mm captive bolt, and centre exhaust clamp.
Disconnect and remove turbo air inlet duct, lift out from above.
Remove small C clip from turbo actuator, disconnect linkage, unbolt and remove actuator motor, one electrical plug, three 10mm bolts.
From above, remove wiper arms and scuttle panel
Remove secondary bulkhead (remove grey sound material first) two bolts at driver side, three at battery side. pull out from driver side.
You now have more access to work.







From the top, remove the black metal bracket on top of the PCV valve, it retains the wiring harness.
Undue both coolant hoses from the EGR valve, coolant loss will be minimal. Left hand clamp is metal, squeeze the tangs together and it will lock open, the right hand connection is a larger version of the fuel filter connections, squeeze the tab and pull off.
Undo the nuts and bolts and remove the EGR pipe that runs over the engine. Two 10mm nuts at throttle body, one 10mm bolt in centre bracket and two 6mm allen bolts at the EGR right hand side.
Undo the bolts and remove the upper turbo/exhaust manifold heat shield.
Disconnect EGR wiring plug.
Remove the two 10mm nuts that retain the EGR cooler pipe clamp to the exhaust manifold.
Remove the 10mm nut at the left hand end of the EGR cooler and the two 6mm allen bolts located near the middle of the assembly, one top one bottom.
At this point the EGR/cooler assy can be removed, to do this you will have to gently pry the flange off the cooler pipe from the exhaust manifold as the clamp cannot be moved sufficiently up the pipe to clear the studs. Once given enough clearance the EGR/Cooler assy can be removed.
At this point if you do not wish to work on the turbo you can separate the EGR from the cooler for cleaning, a new gasket will be required.
The cooler takes a considerable amount of time and patents to clean.










You now have access to the turbo retaining bolts



If you are going to remove/replace or work on the turbo you should also replace the engine oil and filter. At this point I had already drained the oil replaced the filter and partially filled with new oil, approx 3 ltr.
Turbo removal.
Remove the intercooler pipe from the turbo outlet, preferably remove the metal pipe as well for better access.
Undo and remove the two 6mm allen bolts at the turbo oil return flange, a new gasket will be required.
Undo and remove the oil supply banjo bolt, torx head with two copper washers.
The turbo is retained by three 13mm bolts through the manifold flange and one bolt at the base to a support bracket.
Loosen the bolt at the support bracket but do not remove as the turbo is heavy.
After using a liberal amount of release oil, the three bolts at the top can be removed. Although these bolts are originally toqued to 24 Nm, due to rust, heat and time, they are very tight and you do not want to strip the heads or snap them.
The two bolts facing the rear of the car can be easily accessed from above with a 13mm socket and suitable extension. The third bolt is more difficult as it is hidden under the PCV valve assy. I managed to loosen this one with a long aviation ring spanner as all other tools appeared to slip.
Once the top bolts are removed (new gasket required) support the turbo and remove the support bracket bolt and remove from car.
Once the turbo is removed you will have to remove the turbo oil supply pipe from the engine block as the pipe needs to be cleaned and a new filter fitted. this is retained by a 17mm banjo bolt.









As they say, installation is a reversal of the above.
Refurbished turbo (nice and shiny)


Fitted.





During reassembly of all the other component's I decided not to refit the bulkhead sound insulation as it was looking tatty. Instead I replaced it with some heat resistant self adhesive insulation. Fitted a piece to the fixed part of the bulkhead and another to the removable part. just for good measure reused the original fixings as well.



Hope this is helpful to others, not an easy job but doable.

Some of the photos appear to have been mixed up after I uploaded them but I think you can get the idear.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Useful write up

Its getting the access that appears to take the time and being agile. Other than that it's nuts and bolts am I right.

Spot on.
A younger person can probably do it in less time and with fewer cut's and bruises  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

and less bad language no doubt