Hi,

I have had a problem of road noise from the rear of my FL2 for some time now, as reported here and here. It seems at its worst when travelling about 70-80kph or higher.

I immediately thought the worst and decided I had the dodgy Haldex issue that is relatively common. After speaking with my dad and taking him for a ride though, he suggested it could be warped discs, a bearing or dodgy tyres.

It could be dodgy tyres. That particular tyre was reported to have pitting when I complained about road noise to a tyre shop but they reckoned I didn't need to swap it.

I checked the bearing today (by trying to wobble the wheel when jacked up) but there was no play.

I then spun the wheel. There is definitely a tight spot in the rotation of the hub. I have video evidence that I stuck on YouTube with wheel and without wheel. I also noticed that the tyre isn't quite round. When spinning, it would actually catch in one spot, but surely once there is weight on the wheels, this wouldn't cause any issues.

While I had the car jacked up, I did check around the rear diff for any signs of dodgyness. There was some signs of slight oil around where the box is sealed and the gators where the drives come out. I will upload them to my gallery ASAP. They didn't look too bad to me, but peoples opinion on this is appreciated.

So, back to the wheel noise. I realise there should be some binding from the pads on the disc, but is the extent shown in the videos extreme? Could the noise increase when going above a certain speed? What are peoples thoughts on the noise that is irritating me?

Many thanks,
Whytey 1st time FL2 owner. 2007 SE i6 in Tambora Flame.

Probably not much help but don't dismiss the tyres.

From new my car always 'whined' and more noticeable at slower speeds (30mph), it got to the point I was suspecting the rear diff bearing and with the posts on here about it I was about to book it into the dealer.

For other reasons I then upgraded my wheels from 17" Wranglers to 18" Pirelli Scorpions and was amazed, the 'whine' disappeared completely and the ride was so much quieter. It was the Wranglers all along with my car, (I believe you have them also).

In all the years of driving I have heard differing noises made from tyres but never one that fooled me into thinking I had a bearing problem, most of these noises were a much lower frequency.

HI just got my car back from Team valley land rover as i had a weird noise at the back. Turned out the bearing had gone and the cause was a warped drive flange.

Possibly worth looking in to.

Graeme

Thanks guys.

The noise on mine is not a continuous whine but a repetitive whine or drone. Kind of like 'woosh, woosh, woosh'!

(I wish I could capture the noise in video but it is quite subtle but quickly gets on your nerves. MI5 could use it to crack suspects!) 1st time FL2 owner. 2007 SE i6 in Tambora Flame.

TRY SWAPPING TYRES and wheels AROUND IE BACK TO FRONT OR VICE VERSA  rainy-city
xs

isnt that just the rear diff :S When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car

Having listened to the sound on both videos, I can't see that it has anything to do with the wheel and you could easily eliminate that possibility by trying a different wheel.

If I had to put money on it I would say it was the disc which is warped. However, only going through a process of elimination and swapping parts will confirm the truth. Good luck. 2013 RR Evoque Pure Tech
2012 TD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey - gone

Again, thanks for the responses.

Is it normal for that amount of noise to come from the disc when turning the hub though? There is a definite tight spot when rotating just the hub and this was caused by the disc rubbing on the pads.

Cheers,
Whytey 1st time FL2 owner. 2007 SE i6 in Tambora Flame.

So, I replaced the rear discs and pads this weekend in the hope of getting rid of the noise.

I noticed though that with the new disc in place but before having returned the callipers to their mount, the noise still persisted when the disc was rotated.

The noise must be coming from the hand brake shoes then!!! (I knew I should have bloody replaced them too).

Is this normal? Could it be that they have been over-adjusted during a service and I should slacken off the hand-brake cable? Any advice on how to adjust the hand brake shoes? I don't want to have to go to the dealer/garage, if it is just something I can do myself.

Cheers,
Whytey 1st time FL2 owner. 2007 SE i6 in Tambora Flame.

Hindsight is a wonderful gift, should have checked the shoes when doing the Pads, CG offers some good advice on the Hand Brake Shoe Adjustment,

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic12713.html?

The shoes are one expensive but the adjusters can seize.

Regarding the noise - to get a skiffing sound from the discs is not un-normal. But yours does sound like its one particular point which is much worse than the rest, implying a warped disc ( or poorly mounted one )

Just make sure that the disc and its mounting surfaces as well as the mounting surface on the hub are all nice and clean. A lot of crud can build up on the centre ring area the disc will slide over. Even the smallest amount of dirt in behind will be enough to throw the alignment out. Have a good go at it all with a wire brush to clean it up.

If it was the old drum brake, it sounds like the drum catching on the back plate, I think the best course of action is strip it down remove the rear disc and you will find the shoes rubbing in the drum.

Adjust the handbrake shoes right away from the drums to see if the noise goes away. If it does, do a full handbrake adjustment including the 200 yards at 20mph with the hand brake pulled on a tad. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)

JST wrote:

Adjust the handbrake shoes right away from the drums to see if the noise goes away. If it does, do a full handbrake adjustment including the 200 yards at 20mph with the hand brake pulled on a tad.

Do it at the drums, not the cable adjuster. Take the wheels off, take out the rubber bung from the drum, turn the wheel until you can see the adjuster through the hole, poke a screwdriver in and turn the adjuster......you will soon see which way to turn it as if you turn it the wrong way it will tighten up and lock the drum. back the adjuster right off so that the drum can spin without touching the shoes. put your wheel back on and spin it round to see if you have lost the noise. Afterwards, don't forget to adjust the brakes back up. Turn the adjuster until the drum binds tight and then back off until it moves freely...light touching is OK. Then drive it for 200yards with the handbrake lightly applied. Should be fine then. John
07 HSE Narvick Black
Land Rover Series One
Triumph Rocket 111 (sadly gone!)