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athelstan



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Reality
Posts: 2658

Sorry - removal of a double posting

Last edited by athelstan on 1st Sep 2012 6:03 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #153155 1st Sep 2012 5:51 am
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athelstan



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Reality
Posts: 2658

athelstan wrote:
This is what I posted - 2nd Feb. 2012 17:06hrs - on the process of the removing of the headlights from your Fl2, as per LR's own instructions Whistle

athelstan wrote:
I hope they are - these really are flimsy pieces of non-durable plastic kit.

And, who in their right engineering design mind decided to put a tiny "tourist lever" inside the headlight's rear protective cover Evil or Very Mad

This very useful feature for switching the headlight alignment over (instead S/A patches on the headlight lens) whenever one drives in countries on the left (or right) is practically impractical. To do this one has to:

a) open the bonnet, then
b) unclip the headlight locking lever, then
c) unbolt (2 per HL unit) the headlight unit from the bulkhead, then
d) disconnect the electrical plug from the back of the headlamp unit, then
e) release headlight unit from wing/bumper enclosure to gain access to remove rear protective cover, then
f) push or pull lever to the opposite of its current position to change the beam pattern, then
g) clip the rear protective cover back into position, then
h) reconnect the electrical plug to the back of the headlamp unit, then
i) locate headlamp back in the wing/bumper enclosure, then
j) securely fasten headlamp in position with its two locking bolts, then
k) re-clip the headlight's locking lever, then
l) repeat all those ten actions again from b) to k) for your other headlight, then
m) having done both headlights and tested to make sure they function correctly and are secure in their housings, you then
n) finally close the bonnet.

Machiavellian Banging Head

No wonder LR split this absurd exercise over 2 sections and many pages apart in their Owner's Manual. Censored


Only 2 Bolts ad210358 - I've heard of "simplify" but my dear chap your proposition is just being simple.

Post #153158 1st Sep 2012 5:59 am
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ad210358



Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Here and There
Posts: 7464

England 

Athelstan, you do it your way I will do it mine, release the bonnet, it's just two bolts per headlight, pull the release lever let the headlight go forward, remove the cover, turn the lever, refit the cover, push the headlight back into place fit the two bolts, job done, why you want to make it harder for yourself is beyond me. You could work at an LR Dealership doing it your way, you make it sound long winded to justify the prices for doing a job.

Still it's better than the Blue Peter way, after you worked out where to fit them, then have them come off after a few days, then get some more, refit them, then have to remove the sticky residue when you get back, yes we can all make it sound long winded.

Post #153167 1st Sep 2012 10:05 am
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athelstan



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Reality
Posts: 2658

I do it exactly the same way as you do - with the additional step of unplugging the headlamp from the loom and opening the bonnet to get at the two locking bolts Very Happy

I'd like to see you demonstrate how you release those two bolts without opening the bonnet, and removing the headlight unit from the front bumper far enough to remove the rear protective cover without unplugging the unit from the loom Rolling Eyes

As you say - you do it your way - I'll not resort to personal snide remarks about methodology and costs. There's a very good reason why LR set out the step-by-step procedure for changing the position of the "Tourist Lever" Exclamation

Post #153170 1st Sep 2012 10:40 am
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ad210358



Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Here and There
Posts: 7464

England 

I have stated relase the bonnet, why do you always have to pick fault in postings, just read the post again.
I'm done here Banging Head

Post #153171 1st Sep 2012 10:46 am
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taztastic



Member Since: 03 Feb 2011
Location: North West
Posts: 8652

England 

That's one long winded explanation Athelstan, if people have to follow instructions to that degree they shouldn't be in charge of a vehicle, let alone start tinkering with one.
You slate LR for splitting the "absurd exercise", I can only thank the powers that be that you didn't write the manual, or it could possibly be split over a number of volumes Laughing

A) Experience fullness of bladder
B) locate nearest bathroom
C) walk to bathroom
D) open bathroom door

Yes, you know what this is, dont you?

Use the KISS principle instead, better for all concerned Thumbs Up

Post #153172 1st Sep 2012 10:50 am
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athelstan



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Reality
Posts: 2658

ad210358 wrote:
I have stated relase the bonnet, why do you always have to pick fault in postings, just read the post again.
I'm done here Banging Head


My sincere apology re the bonnet. Bow down

Post #153175 1st Sep 2012 11:50 am
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athelstan



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: Reality
Posts: 2658

taztastic wrote:
That's one long winded explanation Athelstan, if people have to follow instructions to that degree they shouldn't be in charge of a vehicle, let alone start tinkering with one.
You slate LR for splitting the "absurd exercise", I can only thank the powers that be that you didn't write the manual, or it could possibly be split over a number of volumes Laughing

A) Experience fullness of bladder
B) locate nearest bathroom
C) walk to bathroom
D) open bathroom door

Yes, you know what this is, dont you?

Use the KISS principle instead, better for all concerned Thumbs Up


I'll ignore the second half of your post - demeaning, and unworthy of one who normally shows a great deal of good old fashioned common sense.

As for the first half of your contribution Taz; I have only replayed the approach that LR themselves advise to do this job to illustrate that it is not a very rapid undertaking as has been propositioned by ad210358, but one that requires a pragmatic approach.

My critique of LR was focused on the design and location of this lever and to prescribe that it could be designed and located to be easier to access. Your reference to my writing user manuals is of no import to that task.

Post #153176 1st Sep 2012 12:20 pm
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2805

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

To resurrect an old thread, heading to France with the Freelander and tin tent in a fortnight, first time with the freelander. 2013 with halogen projector headlamps (hb3 bulbs) can any one confirm if these lights have manual beam adjusters or if sticky plasters are required on the lenses? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #373586 15th Jun 2019 6:44 am
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Blackbird14



Member Since: 26 Apr 2013
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 64

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Manual Baltic Blue

Hi Bobupandown

You will need sticking plasters for your headlights. Currently in Austria and have them fitted to my 2013 model.

Dave

Post #373589 15th Jun 2019 7:14 am
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dorsetfreelander



Member Since: 20 Jul 2013
Location: Dorset
Posts: 4354

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 XS Auto Loire Blue

Bobupndown wrote:
To resurrect an old thread, heading to France with the Freelander and tin tent in a fortnight, first time with the freelander. 2013 with halogen projector headlamps (hb3 bulbs) can any one confirm if these lights have manual beam adjusters or if sticky plasters are required on the lenses?


My MY14 handbook says that I don't need to do anything. I also have a French translation of the page in case Monsieur Plod can't understand my French. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

Post #373597 15th Jun 2019 8:30 am
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2805

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Interesting, must check my handbook. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #373598 15th Jun 2019 9:33 am
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Sidthecat



Member Since: 10 Sep 2017
Location: Sarf-East London-sur-Mer
Posts: 1635

England 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

Bobupndown wrote:
To resurrect an old thread, heading to France with the Freelander and tin tent in a fortnight, first time with the freelander. 2013 with halogen projector headlamps (hb3 bulbs) can any one confirm if these lights have manual beam adjusters or if sticky plasters are required on the lenses?


Before we went abroad last year in our 63 plate I had much the same concerns and recollect someone saying the headlights threw a 'flat?' beam , and as such no redirection/masking off was required.

Post #373602 15th Jun 2019 12:23 pm
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Bobupndown



Member Since: 26 Dec 2014
Location: Upside down behind the TV!
Posts: 2805

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 GS Auto Orkney Grey

Just checked my handbook which is the same for my MY14. So have translated a few copies of the relevant paragraph to keep in the car to hopefully please any French plod that takes an interest in my lights! Rolling with laughter Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Post #373603 15th Jun 2019 12:24 pm
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
Posts: 4906

Ukraine 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

A photo here of my headlights low beam. https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29503.html Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Post #373604 15th Jun 2019 12:54 pm
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