Thought I would share this as it seems to be a common problem! I have just tried a spray type EGR cleaner which didn't help my judder/cough/hesitation, so in desperation tryed another suggestion on cleaning the crank sensor.

It only took 15 minutes to remove, clean and refit and on testing it, it was nigh on undriveable, the car was lurching and missing at anything under 2k revs and was far worse than before so I stopped on a field and turned the engine off, waited a few minutes then attempted to start it but it wouldn't...just kept turning over and wouldn't fire. I removed the cowling, undone the sensor then moved it slightly and retightened and all is now (sort of) ok.

Question is do you think I need a new sensor the hesitation that I had before is still there but barely noticeable now, especially going down hill where at approx 2k revs and in gear (engine on overun) there was a distinct hesitation before it would pick up and go, it doesn't do that now. It's like the problem is nearly cured but I assumed if the sensor was knackered or dirty it would be....well, knackered or dirty. I've cleaned it and replaced it only for it to make matters far worse and now better than it's been in weeks

Appreciate any advice

The gap for the crank sensor is critical. I suspect that it needed cleaning anyway and that you simply didn't get the gap right first time.
Normally, if the crank position sensor is kaput, the car wont start. EMS needs this signal to function. Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Pegleg wrote:

The gap for the crank sensor is critical. I suspect that it needed cleaning anyway and that you simply didn't get the gap right first time.
Normally, if the crank position sensor is kaput, the car wont start. EMS needs this signal to function.

So what you are saying Pegleg is I have been a very lucky boy ......when you say getting the 'gap' right does this relate to how much you tighten the sensor bolt or the small ammount of up/down movement there is prior to tightening or both? If you get what I mean..........

I've fiddled with the damm things myself, I always try to push the thing forward towards the crank and hold it there while i tighten it. Even a few thou can make all the difference. Pity there is any play at all, but as you've noticed, there is. They use a tool to check the gap when the engine is assembled.

Anyway, sounds like you got it right now  Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Pegleg wrote:

I've fiddled with the damm things myself, I always try to push the thing forward towards the crank and hold it there while i tighten it. Even a few thou can make all the difference. Pity there is any play at all, but as you've noticed, there is. They use a tool to check the gap when the engine is assembled.

Anyway, sounds like you got it right now

I'll just hold my breath now and hope.......many thanks for the help

I think you need to plug in a meter and check for any fault codes stored on the ECU. Usualy if a sensor goes down and depending on what its monitoring the car will go into limp mode (get me home mode).
Ive had this problem on a vauxhall vectra some years ago but it was a intermittant fault on the cam shaft sensor. It fagged up a fault code so I replaced the sensor and cleared the fault code from the ECU and all was fine.

There was a photo somewhere showing the position of all sensors on the 2.2 TD4, not sure if it was on this forum. I can’t find it. Has anyone seen this before?

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic9803-15.html