As the title says, my alarm on the LR2 has been triggering twice in the past three days inside my garage.
I did some research on the forum and I heard about the BBS.
When my alarm goes off, I get the lights and the horn (the same horn you would get if you press the horn switches on the steering wheel) at the same time. I have a few questions.
Does this sound related to the BBS?
How can i diagnose the source of the issue?

Thank you. Cuatro Por Cuatro

So I went ahead and replaced the anti-theft switch Part number LR024358 due to the alarm going off randomly.

It is a common issue according to the internet. Cheap enough part that it was worth a shot.

I attached pictures of the repair. I hope it works and that it helps anyone with the same issue.





 Cuatro Por Cuatro

Many thanks for this, it was really helpful. This action requires removal of the headlight with is extremely easy. Just search for "freelander 2 headlight removal" and watch the YouTube video kindly posted by powerfulukltd Alan Tomkins

A word of warning. I had the same problem as this on a 2010 Freelander 2. I ordered the part number recommended on this thread but ended up getting this;

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Discover...2749.l2649

It did say on the page that;

Part number LR065340. This part supersedes YUE500150, LR024358, LR041431, LR054331

(Note - if the eBay link no longer works in the future, it was for bonnet catch and switch equivalent to LR024358 for a Freelander 2).

When the part arrived, it was different. The switch mechanism shown as being unclipped in the photographs above no longer unclips, it is built into the bonnet latch and can't be removed. This is all fine other than it makes a 15 minute job into an hour's job with much more risk - you now have to remove the entire latch including the bonnet release wire. This is a somewhat fiddly job when the only access is from the space where the headlamp has been removed. The added risk is that if you get the length of the bonnet release cable wrong (you have to adjust it depending on where the new bonnet latch situates itself) and then slammed the bonnet, you won't be able to open it again.

In my case it was OK - I was careful and adjusted accordingly. But my advice would be (1) try and find the part that separates in the first place and if not, (2) mark the position of the bonnet catch BEFORE removing it. 2010 HSE Auto in Santorini Black/almond with xenons and privacy glass.

Thanks to you on this forum. I solved my alarm-problem thanks to this information.

Best regards

I have the random alarm problem happening on my Freelander 2 2007. My question is, the spring part in question....what is actually wrong with it? (I've not pulled mine out as yet nor seen it up close) Is the spring part a simple electrical contact for another part and does it corrode or get dirty thus stopping proper contact and setting off the alarm? Can it simply be cleaned/polished???

(Basing my questions on the photos posted at the beginning of the thread)

Hi
It looks like a simpel contact. Mine was very dirty and it might have been enough to cleen it upp. Sometimes the spring is also deformed though... Happely its not a costly part
Best Regards Martin

I would guess that is more likely to be the spring deforming over time and then not having enough 'spring' force to continue making contact. It is a reasonable faff to get to so if I were doing it, I would just replace the part during the process to be 100% sure. 2010 HSE Auto in Santorini Black/almond with xenons and privacy glass.

Guys, the bonnet latch pushes down on the C spring which presses in the microswitch. its usually the microoswitch which is shot. Just have to remove the offside headlight and then take out the spring and switch assembly complete. Replacement part is LR024358

The microswitch and spring actuator is now all in one integral with the latch assembly. Pn is LR125366. Remove the rh headlight to get at it. The new assembly slides in between the top plate and the rad. Fit the release cable before you put it in. Slide it in to place, connect up the square two pin plug, Whilst holding the latch up as far as it will go,replace the two bolts, just nip it up and try latching the bonnet down on it to align it. Once aligned test it with your key. Once you are happy nip up the two bolts tight. Replace headlight, make sure you have the two slides matched up on the bottom and slide it in, tighten two top bolts.. Good luck

I have had the same random alarm. Also now and again it sounds horn and refuses to lock as if a door is open. Finally I noticed the bonnet open message when driving. Removed the RH headlight disconnected and removed the bonnet latch switch. The switch was really manky. Sprayed it with carb cleaner especially into the microswitch. Cleaned it all up blasted it with air and refitted it. All good, so far no more alarms or messages.

UPDATE - Problem returned after a few months. I have now fitted a new style bonnet latch bought of ebay. New style latch is far superior and all ok 6 months later.

Just replaced the latch on my 2010 FL2 after regular spurious alarms being triggered and getting the ‘bonnet open’ message on the dash.

I bought a new Britpart unit with integral switch.

Replacement took about 30 mins.

1. Remove driver side headlight
2. Undo the two 10mm bolts holding the latch to the front bulkhead (1/4” drive socket and ratchet)
3. Once bolts undone, remove electrical connector
4. Slip whole unit into engine compartment through gap between radiator and slam panel, allowing easy access to remove release cable and attach to new unit.
5. Slip new unit back into position, attach electrical connector and bolt back into place.

Job done: no drama.

Hello RRBlue can you please tell me the part number for this??

Thanks
Charis


RE:
Just replaced the latch on my 2010 FL2 after regular spurious alarms being triggered and getting the ‘bonnet open’ message on the dash.

I bought a new Britpart unit with integral switch.

Replacement took about 30 mins.

1. Remove driver side headlight
2. Undo the two 10mm bolts holding the latch to the front bulkhead (1/4” drive socket and ratchet)
3. Once bolts undone, remove electrical connector
4. Slip whole unit into engine compartment through gap between radiator and slam panel, allowing easy access to remove release cable and attach to new unit.
5. Slip new unit back into position, attach electrical connector and bolt back into place.

Job done: no drama.

Here you are.

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr125366...7006-p.asp (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Had the same problem of alarm going off occasionally, and did the same as thehelper above. Removed switch unit which was very manky (particularly the top of the spring so it probably wasn’t making permanent contact when bonnet was shut), cleaned & refitted. Will wait & see if things improve.







Pointer in photo shows the top of the contact spring when viewed from above the R/H bonnet catch - cleaning this in situ through the gap might solve the issue in some cases, and save removing the headlight & switch?