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toeknee



Member Since: 14 Feb 2009
Location: out and about
Posts: 1509

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Sumatra Black

I'm quite impressed with the 140AW, that I got last week, even holds my zoom lens and Mrs Toeknee still hasn't sussed it out yet Mr. Green

Post #147453 2nd Jul 2012 2:53 pm
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
Posts: 20090

United Kingdom 

I was thinking the bag was going to be a basic one, but happy for now

Found i need to get a dust cover for the kit lens and the body as he seems to have not put them in the box when he posted it, but there not much on eBay

Just been sat in the office, snapping away, playing with setting, but i do feel i need to read up a bit more on it too

it seams to click take the picture and doesn't unclick until i release my finger, but even doing this and moving the camera around takes a clear photo, i thought it might be doing a long exposure or something

The 70-300mm lens is a none VR one i can can see the wobble when on full zoom, might upgrade in time and/or get a collapsible tri-pod for long shots

Post #147457 2nd Jul 2012 3:31 pm
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Pegleg



Member Since: 15 Apr 2010
Location: Deep in mid Wales
Posts: 3114

Wales 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Santorini Black

Could be long exposures but if you move the camera about, all you'll get is a blur.

Could also be that the camera is set to 'Exposure Delay 'mode.
Dunno how different yours if from my D90, but most Nikons are very similar.
Switch on the camera, press the Menu button, then select the 3rd icon (looks like a pencil) on the left hand side of the rear LCD screen. This should get you into Custom Settings. Select 'd' Shooting/display. Scroll down to d10 Exposure delay mode, and enusre this is to 'Off'.

As a tip, try to shoot in either RAW or JPEG, and not RAW+Jpeg, you can get in a right mess otherwise Thumbs Up Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

Post #147490 2nd Jul 2012 8:23 pm
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realspeed



Member Since: 26 Mar 2011
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 574

United Kingdom 

so pleased with my panasonic HDC-SD600 camcorder been out and purchased top of the range Panasonic HC_X900M (see photo)



Big advantage over the 600 version is it will do stills and/or video in any combination via the onboard and SDHC card Also can take seperate mike,one in picture cost over £200

Realspeed Ex 2010 Freelander2 GS-e Diesel manual Silver owner

Post #147589 3rd Jul 2012 7:43 pm
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realspeed



Member Since: 26 Mar 2011
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 574

United Kingdom 

Quote "it seams to click take the picture and doesn't unclick until i release my finger" unquote

You have it in whats called "bulb"mode, this happens when the camera is in manual mode and the shutter speed is below its lowest "preset" setting. with the camera on this setting you can control the amount of light getting onto the sensor,and generally used at night or in really low lighting conditions. For general use leaving a camera in Apeture mode covers most of what you need to take.
Understanding the relationship between Aperture-Shutter speed and ISO takes a time to learn as each has a direct effect on the others. A good starting point is having the setting on around f8 in A mode
A non VR lens is better with some form of stablisation,especially working at max distance, the slightest movement gets really exagerated which is what you are getting

Photography is my main hobby and has been for many years, I always say to anyone with a new camera you can only learn so much out of a book, the real learning curve is getting out there and taking photos.
Some say you should study this or that photographer and his/her work , to me you will never develop your own style doing it that way. What I would suggest though is don't look at any photo as a photo only, look at angles/height/lighting/subject matter/backgrounds instead, there is a lot to be learn't doing that. You will hear about "rule of thirds", This generally means you divide the picture into three sections mentally either horizontally or vertically and the centre section doesn't always have to have the main subject in it. If taking a moving subject always leave room in the picture for the subject to appear to be able to go into.

Example which can seem to allow the duck to fly out of shot (not one of my best photos but demonstrates what I mean)



A bad example to show the difference, the duck has nowhere to go to

Click image to enlarge

Yes we all take bad photos as well but don't generally show them

Just a couple if tips worth remembering

Also a good editing suit can make a bad picture into a good one. I mainly use Adobe Elements 10 which isn't that hard to learn but is well worth the purchase cost



Realspeed Ex 2010 Freelander2 GS-e Diesel manual Silver owner

Post #147603 3rd Jul 2012 8:56 pm
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