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Bogart



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 510

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Stornoway Grey

Thinking of doing mine agree with 6mm at battery earth but I looked at bolt on starter motor looks like an 8mm to me are you sure yours was 10mm?

Post #320384 29th Mar 2017 1:41 pm
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dunkley201



Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 2739

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

6 & 10 mm fitted mine....

Bob 10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

Post #320385 29th Mar 2017 2:07 pm
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Bogart



Member Since: 20 May 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 510

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Stornoway Grey

Ordered a 6/10 hard to see the size of the starter motor bolt.

Post #320443 30th Mar 2017 8:53 am
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Franklinp99



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 44

England 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand
HDC not available - possible workaround

I’ve still been getting this error intermittently on startup despite getting a new Bosch battery and fitting the extra earth strap but I think I might have come up with a workaround solution....
I leave my foot off the brake when holding down the start button, this turns on everything but the engine and in a few seconds completes the system checks. I wait for all lights except the battery, hand brake and engine management to go out then put my foot on the brake and press start again to crank the engine.
My theory is it allows the systems to boot up without the engine cranking stealing the much needed voltage from the computer modules that control the HDC, ABS, TRS etc.

I’d like some feedback to see if this works on other F2’s as I still expect it to give me faults despite being error free for 3 days since I started using this startup method. Current: MY11 SD4 HSE / Sterling Quartz 2010 caravan

Previous: MY11 TD4 GS / Bailey Bordeaux 2002 caravan

Post #348443 29th Apr 2018 4:32 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1234

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Franklin,

Your approach makes sense

For my 3.2 the electronics are very sensitive to voltage (I am on my third battery in 10 years, and a new starter)

And as you have discovered the voltage is less when the starter motor is engaged

If I were in your position I would measure the voltage drop with the engine cranking

I posted what my voltage drops are in an earlier post, I’ll look for it and add a link here.

If the battery voltage drops too low and your sure that the battery is good then it may be time to rebuild the starter motor

Good luck

Paul

Post #348503 30th Apr 2018 3:41 am
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1533

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

An Indi mechanic told me to boot the car up before starting the engine. He said that less faults will be logged

Post #348504 30th Apr 2018 5:45 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1234

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Here is a link that may help

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29593.htm...age+drop+b


When I checked my battery voltage while cranking I got the following


Battery voltage (initial) 12.25 Volts

Battery voltage (cranking) 10.97 Volts (less than 9 Volts, replace the battery)

I recommend that you measure the voltage at the battery while cranking and if it drops significantly then think about getting a new battery

Happy Motoring

Paul

Post #348596 30th Apr 2018 5:00 pm
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Franklinp99



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 44

England 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand

Thanks for the advice, I’ll measure voltage while cranking... it is a new battery though Current: MY11 SD4 HSE / Sterling Quartz 2010 caravan

Previous: MY11 TD4 GS / Bailey Bordeaux 2002 caravan

Post #348684 1st May 2018 1:25 pm
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LR208



Member Since: 29 Apr 2018
Location: DETROIT
Posts: 4

United States 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tangiers Orange
Attempting to Resolve the HDC Fault System not available

I have an ‘08 / Auto / Petro / 3.2L 6 / “Freelander2” (LR2) And I am attempting to refresh the filter/oil and see what is wrong with the oil pump (and/or control mod / components) in the Haldex 3 unit. In hopes to resolve system fault.

Has anyone actually removed the Haldex 3 (in a 2008) by only removing the 6 Drive Shaft (Prop) bolts and the 4 bolts around the perimeter of the Haldex unit? I have the 6 bolts out of the Drive shaft but the driveshaft shows no sign of wanting to separate from the Haldex flange. Is there a bunch of other stuff that needs removed to get the Drive shaft removed from the Haldex unit and the Haldex then removed from the Diff ?

Thanks in Advance !

Post #350421 29th May 2018 2:54 pm
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Franklinp99



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 44

England 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand

Finally sorted my HDC fault caused by low voltage... turns out I had a faulty drivers door lock that was draining the battery. I bought a replacement lock and changed it using the YouTube guide and it’s sorted it. The nav screen is now immediately brighter than ever on startup. Current: MY11 SD4 HSE / Sterling Quartz 2010 caravan

Previous: MY11 TD4 GS / Bailey Bordeaux 2002 caravan

Post #351136 8th Jun 2018 7:09 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1234

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Thumbs Up

That's great news.

I need to check the quiescent current on my LR.

How did you determine that it was the drivers door lock?

Take care

Paul

Post #351152 8th Jun 2018 9:52 pm
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Franklinp99



Member Since: 07 Dec 2014
Location: Kent
Posts: 44

England 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand

Well I'd tried everything else so figured I'd better get round to fixing the door lock in case the 2 were connected, immediately after fixing the lock I was getting loads of transmission faults including getting stuck in one gear and 4wd disengaging.
The next day it started fine so I took it to LR who couldn't find anything wrong that's when I noticed the nav screen being immediately bright where before it would always start dark and slowly brighten up.
2 weeks later it's been absolutely fine so I figured the motor that locked the drivers door must have seized up but was still using power trying to lock the door. Current: MY11 SD4 HSE / Sterling Quartz 2010 caravan

Previous: MY11 TD4 GS / Bailey Bordeaux 2002 caravan

Post #351157 8th Jun 2018 10:35 pm
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1234

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

Franklin,

That makes perfect sense.

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

I will be sure to change my locks if they misbehave.

Happy Motoring

Paul

Post #351158 8th Jun 2018 11:14 pm
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Harleydee



Member Since: 23 Nov 2018
Location: Selby
Posts: 1

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Stornoway Grey

Many Thanks for this info, my Freelander 2 started with this error message this week and only when cold starting on a morning once warmed up all is ok. Was wondering if it was related to the "cold weather" . I noted that cranking is somewhat laboured when it errors.

Will check the battery tomorrow.

Post #360962 23rd Nov 2018 5:19 pm
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